Date:         Thu, 30 Mar 2006 05:10:06 +0000
Reply-To:     Dave Vickery <davevickery@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Vickery <davevickery@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Whole Pop top conversion
In-Reply-To:  <442B51DD.3040600@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

I'm with Mark cutting/welding/removing windows etc. ain't for most folks.
Actually I am grateful for his contribtuon and I followed those pics to do
mine and I am quite happy with it.  There a couple areas that could use an
experienced hand, but it's all good now.

Having done this now, I do wonder why we don't just cut a bigger hole.  The
42" x 42" hole works good, but the roof arch is what makes fitting the upper
bunk a trick.  Why not just continue cutting most of the way to the rear
(including 1 roof reinforcement) which would remove the arch.   You could
then re-create the flat section with plywood and some reinforcement.  The
arch is a couple inches.  By flattening that out, there would be plenty of
space for the normal bunk and avoid the welding etc.  Anybody ever try that?

Dave in Denver
Custom Poptop Sync-ru

>From: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
>Reply-To: mark drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
>To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>Subject: Re: Whole Pop top conversion
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 19:34:53 -0800
>
>Of course, you could do it that way and some have.But removing the
>windshield, all side windows, rear hatch, sliding door, etc, cutting,
>fitting, and welding all 8 pillars is not that easy. And then having
>body work and paint work to do before putting all those things back is
>not reducing the work. Why do you think it is? Most of us want nothing
>to do with that level of work. As for blending the paint at the welded
>areas, that only works if both sections started out the same color.Most
>likely the whole upper section will have to be painted, inside and
>out.You are also minimizing the work involved in interior finishing. The
>passenger models have headliner fabric running down all the rear pillars
>to the lower panels but Westys don't. So in addition to the exterior
>weld grinding, body filler, and paint work, the same must be done on the
>inside and then some decision made as to how to finish off  the rear
>pillars that were cut and welded, for the parts that show on the inside.
>Of course various wires run up through the front pillars and around the
>ceiling areas so that must be removed and then replaced after the new
>roof is welded in. And the entire interior must be removed or carefully
>masked off so the exposed welded  interior metal surfaces can be painted
>to match the original vehicle color. Yep, that is a lot easier than just
>cutting a hole in the roof and bolting stuff in.
>
>Mark
>
>Zoltan wrote:
>
>>Hi guys,
>>I was wondering why to do all that work when the whole pop top roof
>>and part
>>of the van that is made for the camper can be all installed onto a van.
>>I would cut the donor at about the halfway at the windows around and
>>fit the
>>whole thing just like that onto the the other.  It can be taylored to fit
>>nicely and weld some reinforcing inside before lowering it onto the
>>new one.
>>At the windows, it is easy to weld, to bondo, and to blend in the paint.
>>The area is narrow.  As long as the windows will keep their proper
>>size, all
>>should be fine.  Now, I am not sure what is inside the columns to be
>>worried
>>abut not to cut.  Some guys on the list would probably able to tell us.
>>There maybe some electricals that would have to be connected before
>>assembly.
>>Well, I think, it is easier to do this way and all the camper areas
>>would be
>>original.  There would be no difference.  No one could tell ever.
>>Only it
>>has to be done nicely, grind down the weldings, bondo it smooth, paint it
>>correctly, reinstall the covering properly.
>>I think, I could do one for about $4,000 plus the painting.
>>I wonder what the list would add to this.
>>Zoltan