Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2006 19:11:23 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject: Re: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-F230555472B5F7875FF7B8ECDC90@phx.gbl>
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Gunk! What type of gunk? Is it that yellow tannish looking goop? ATF and
gear oil mixing do not make gunk. In fact, ATF getting into the final
drive is not even a problem until the final drive is overfilled or the
ATF is under filled. Gear oil getting into the auto section can cause
slippage and erratic shifting. Gunk is caused by either water or
antifreeze getting into the works. Water can be had from really
excessive condensation or the breathers getting submerged or the ATF
cooler leaking internally. The cooler leaking is a common problem. Look
for the water source.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Smythe [mailto:r3tr0v1ru5@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 3:37 PM
To: dhaynes@optonline.net
Subject: RE: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers
Hi Dennis, thanks for your response. The leak has been going on long
enough
that the gunk is everywhere, certainly coming out the vent at the top of
the
final drive, but I will check the "mid seal" drainage point you
described. A
couple of clarifications if you can:
Do I need to dissassemble the bearing housing to remove it?
Does this require a press?
Does the end play of the pinion need to be shimmed/checked after?
The special part shown in the bentley sleeve number 2058 looks like it
is
meant to establish good concentricity of the pinion shaft and the cover
plate, presumable for even loading of the seal pair. Is this tool needed
or
can the seals themselves center the cover plate properly?
I can see the oil hole seal (small o-ring) and what looks like it could
be a
gasket or o-ring at the mating of the pinion bearing cover plate and the
differential case. Are these the only other seals I should have ready to
replace?
Thanks Again
Robert
90 MV
>Are you sure the problem is through those seals. ATF going into the
>final drive can also be the governor seal. Part # 003-507-125-A. There
>is drain hole to allow oil that gets past one of the seals to drain out
>before getting into the other compartment. If the seal are leaking,
>there should be oil dripping out this hole. It is located just behind
>the ATF pan. Make sure it is not plugged. The OEM seal have raised
edges
>on the seal faces so that after they are installed there is space
>between the seals. Get them for the dealer. Removing the bearing
housing
>will be needed. There are o-rings that will need to be replaced.
>Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
Of Robert Smythe
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:27 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers
Cover me! I'm goin' in!
I believe I have all the replacement seals and fluid required to perform
this job, but the bentley manual shows everything clean, disassembled,
and
liberally sprinkled with special tools. I am seeking counsel from
someone
who has done the repair sufficient to keep the ATF out of the gear oil.
I
dont like the idea of scrambling to find a machine shop with a press
open on
sat/sun. My skill level is somewhere between novice and intermediate. Im
taking it on because I cant afford the quote I got to do the work. I
might
just learn something.
Specific questions:
I have 2 of the pinion seals, but do I need to remove the pinion from
the
final drive to r&r the seals?
From the drawing in bently page 39.57 it looks as if the pair of seals
are
accessible after the AT is removed, UNLESS they are very tightly bound
between the cover plate and the oil seal sleeve.
If I do have to remove the pinion, do I have to check end play and be
prepared to shim as indicated in bentley? ( I didn't actually buy parts
to
cover this)
I was tentatively planning to remove the ATF cooler from the tranny
before
dismounting the AT and let it dangle from the coolant lines to avoid
bleeding the cooling system. Possible? Dumb idea?
Any firsthand experience will be greatly appreciated. I promise to make
lots
of photos and a procedure available, should I succeed. If I fail, my
specific failure procedure wont be interesting I reckon.
Robert
90 MV AT-wishing I had a 4speed manual