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Date:         Fri, 7 Apr 2006 19:11:23 -0400
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers
Comments: To: Robert Smythe <r3tr0v1ru5@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY101-F230555472B5F7875FF7B8ECDC90@phx.gbl>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Gunk! What type of gunk? Is it that yellow tannish looking goop? ATF and gear oil mixing do not make gunk. In fact, ATF getting into the final drive is not even a problem until the final drive is overfilled or the ATF is under filled. Gear oil getting into the auto section can cause slippage and erratic shifting. Gunk is caused by either water or antifreeze getting into the works. Water can be had from really excessive condensation or the breathers getting submerged or the ATF cooler leaking internally. The cooler leaking is a common problem. Look for the water source.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Robert Smythe [mailto:r3tr0v1ru5@hotmail.com] Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 3:37 PM To: dhaynes@optonline.net Subject: RE: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers

Hi Dennis, thanks for your response. The leak has been going on long enough that the gunk is everywhere, certainly coming out the vent at the top of the final drive, but I will check the "mid seal" drainage point you described. A couple of clarifications if you can:

Do I need to dissassemble the bearing housing to remove it?

Does this require a press?

Does the end play of the pinion need to be shimmed/checked after?

The special part shown in the bentley sleeve number 2058 looks like it is meant to establish good concentricity of the pinion shaft and the cover plate, presumable for even loading of the seal pair. Is this tool needed or can the seals themselves center the cover plate properly?

I can see the oil hole seal (small o-ring) and what looks like it could be a gasket or o-ring at the mating of the pinion bearing cover plate and the

differential case. Are these the only other seals I should have ready to

replace?

Thanks Again

Robert 90 MV

>Are you sure the problem is through those seals. ATF going into the >final drive can also be the governor seal. Part # 003-507-125-A. There >is drain hole to allow oil that gets past one of the seals to drain out >before getting into the other compartment. If the seal are leaking, >there should be oil dripping out this hole. It is located just behind >the ATF pan. Make sure it is not plugged. The OEM seal have raised edges >on the seal faces so that after they are installed there is space >between the seals. Get them for the dealer. Removing the bearing housing >will be needed. There are o-rings that will need to be replaced.

>Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Robert Smythe Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 3:27 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Need AT final drive seal replacement pointers

Cover me! I'm goin' in!

I believe I have all the replacement seals and fluid required to perform this job, but the bentley manual shows everything clean, disassembled, and liberally sprinkled with special tools. I am seeking counsel from someone who has done the repair sufficient to keep the ATF out of the gear oil. I dont like the idea of scrambling to find a machine shop with a press open on sat/sun. My skill level is somewhere between novice and intermediate. Im taking it on because I cant afford the quote I got to do the work. I might just learn something.

Specific questions:

I have 2 of the pinion seals, but do I need to remove the pinion from the final drive to r&r the seals? From the drawing in bently page 39.57 it looks as if the pair of seals are accessible after the AT is removed, UNLESS they are very tightly bound between the cover plate and the oil seal sleeve.

If I do have to remove the pinion, do I have to check end play and be prepared to shim as indicated in bentley? ( I didn't actually buy parts to cover this)

I was tentatively planning to remove the ATF cooler from the tranny before dismounting the AT and let it dangle from the coolant lines to avoid bleeding the cooling system. Possible? Dumb idea?

Any firsthand experience will be greatly appreciated. I promise to make lots of photos and a procedure available, should I succeed. If I fail, my specific failure procedure wont be interesting I reckon.

Robert 90 MV AT-wishing I had a 4speed manual


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