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Date:         Mon, 10 Apr 2006 11:27:34 -0700
Reply-To:     "Michael A. Radtke" <michael.radtke@BULL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Michael A. Radtke" <michael.radtke@BULL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Stuck Head
Comments: To: Geo & Kathleen Hahn <ahwahnee@CYBERTRAILS.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Geo,

Thanks for the tip ... What an idea!

Perhaps other folks will comment on it.

I don't have a good feeling for the amount of torque that I could safely apply, so I think that I'll save this as a last resort. I'll report whatever else that I try and the results back to the list.

Thanks again,

Mike

-------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Stuck Head Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 11:09:26 -0700 From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn <ahwahnee@CYBERTRAILS.COM> Reply-To: Geo & Kathleen Hahn <ahwahnee@CYBERTRAILS.COM> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM References: <4439C66D.FF7D5C96@bull.com>

Michael A. Radtke wrote:

>...I backed off the head nuts. However, the head wouldn't budge. >

On my other (non-VW) cars I have used what we call 'The Rope Trick'. You remove a spark plug and, with the piston somewhere near the bottom of it's stroke, feed several feet of nylon rope (quarter inch diameter or so) into the cylinder. You then hand crank the engine to cause the piston to jam all that rope against the head and budge it.

WARNING: I have only used this technique on engines with cast iron blocks and cast iron heads so you should get a second opinion before trying in on yours. With cast iron you can be fairly fearless -- i.e. bump the starter motor to pop that head loose -- use good judgement as to what force is appropriate on the wasser-leaker.

Geo Hahn

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