Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 22:56:47 -0400
Reply-To: robert shawn feller <feller@CARBONCOW.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: robert shawn feller <feller@CARBONCOW.COM>
Organization: carboncow
Subject: Re: battery-inverter-charger-battery loop
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.0.20060418215954.046b3b88@buncombe.main.nc.us>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Good points, I just figured you are draining the battery at a considerably
high rate going from 12v to 110v through the inverter for this need due to
the heat loss at the inverter. Hopefully you have a larger inverter but then
again I think the 110v or 12v elements all draw 140 watts or such.
Since you said shore power you most likely have some boating "in you" and
may know there are interesting (but often expensive) switch solutions at
www.westmarine.com and such. My larger boats power panel has specially
designed switches to make sure this scenario you state doesn't happen.
To answer you first post question I can see no reason this would be danger
to have an accident loop but obviously not good for the charge. I have
killed a few chargers doing stupid things like running a load on a 110v
inverter (from 12v) while the battery charger is going. The amp load I
placed on the 12v system was greater then the amp output of the charger and
thus fried it. This may cause the same in your case.
I would tend to think the inverter thermal protector (or even the inverters)
would kick in and protect them from the loop you are describing but I have
no real electrical education to confirm your need. Just lots of experience
doing the same stuff you are asking on my boats and my westy!
Loved you LED idea on the other post as I have been wanting to due the same
when I get the chance.
Shawn
Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Edward Maglott
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 10:04 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: battery-inverter-charger-battery loop
I actually prefer to run the fridge off of the inverter and use the 120v
element if I am driving and stopping for short periods where it is not
worth it to put it on propane. It doesn't draw much more than running it
directly off the 12v element. running on 120 via inverter also gives me
the thermostatic control that 12v doesn't have, and the inverter will shut
down if battery voltage drops too low. On 12v it will just suck the
battery down to 0v.
Edward
At 09:47 PM 4/18/2006, you wrote:
>Edward,
>
>I just pulled out the lower 110v breaker panel (its still in there behind
>the door) and just put in another 110v plug but this one is directly hooked
>up to my inverter/battery system. Less hassle as you would never want the
>110v that runs the fridge trying to go from battery 12v to inverter 110v to
>the heating element, to much voltager drain.
>
>Shawn
