Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 19:18:59 -0400
Reply-To: Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: CV Bolts
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Raymond,
I'd have to recommend putting it back on. The factory had some reason
for them. Most likely to prevent the individual stresses on the separate
bolts from snapping them off. When they team up in pairs due to the 2-hole
plates, they're stronger overall and less likely to break.
Plus, due to it's thickness not being there to take up bolt length,
there's the issue of excessive thread protrusion on the backside of the CV
flanges, possibly rubbing against something back there, like the output
shaft seal.
BTW, I failed to mention that the serrated lockwashers are absolutely
critical to keep them from loosening up.
Don't take the axles off again, completely. Just take out two neighboring
bolts at a time and reinstall those plates. FUN!
Mike B.
P.S. Hey, Boston Bob, if you're listening, I'd like to bring some parts by
tommorrow.........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Paquette" <raymondpaquette@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: CV Bolts
Hey
How important are those 2 hole washer things? I ask because I just found
mine on the bottom of the solvent tank, and I'd rather not take my axles off
again.
Raymond
On 4/28/06, Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> 'Triple-square' and 'hex' are not the proper terms used for VW's
> internal-wrenching bolts. It "6-point' or '12-point'. Here's how to
> break
> torque on a stubborn, rusted or rounded-out VW cv bolt regardless of the
> fact that it's a 6 or 12 point type. For inner cv's, put the vehicle up
> on
> jackstands and make sure that the tires are clear enough to rotate freely
> (no e-brake on either!). Now, rotate the tire to a spot where it's
> comfortable to get at the offending cv bolt. Place a BF screwdriver (or
> prybar) close to the axle above one adjacent bolt and below another
> adjacent
> bolt so that the forces of loosening the bolt will be opposed by this
> lever.
> This will prevent the axle from rotating while you're applying as much
> torque as necessary to break loose the offending bolt. Now, use the
> proper
> 3/8" drive 6 or 12 point bit tool on your breaker/ ratchet or flex handle
> if
> it's a good, clean cv bolt. If it's a screwed-up cv bolt, use large,
> toothy vice-grips installed as tightly as possible on the smooth outside
> of
> the cv bolt head to break torque and loosen it a bit. Now you can finish
> removal by hand or using you special tool, as it'll spin freely now. I've
> done this trick on Beetles, Busses, Vanagons, Rabbits, Golfs, Jettas,
> Audis,
> Porsches, etc., when drastic measures became necessary.
>
> You're now saying, ".......but wait! That trick won't help me with the
> OUTER cv bolts on the Vanagon!" Those one's are hiding way deep inside the
> dark inner recesses of the box steel trailing arm.......... but that's
> also
> easily addressed by my OTHER secret trick.............
> Before you jack up the van and set it on jackstands, for this minor
> surgical procedure, break the big 46MM axle nut(s) loose on the desired
> axle
> assembly (or both, if planning on doing cv boots and grease repacking
> work).
> Can you see where this is leading? You don't want to remove the axle
> nuts totally yet, just loosen them up so that they're free spinning and
> ready to go when the time is right. Now, set'er up on the jackstands, as
> I
> described before, and remove all the inner cv bolts, so that you can drop
> the axle's inner cv end off of the trans axle flange. Now, remove your
> axle
> nut completely, and slide that puppy right outta there! Look at those
> grungy outer cv bolts, blinking cause of the bright lights in their eyes!
> Now, use the pry bar and vice-grip trick on those bad larry's, as
> necessary!
> As a Mexican friend of mine once said,
> "No problem!!!!!! .............and if there IS a problem??????.........NO
> PROBLEM!!!!!!!"
>
> Now that you've got those thing out of there, think about the next poor
> bastard and replace the screwed-up ones with 12-points! Unless you laying
> on the side of the road, trying to get'er home. BTDT!
> Then, reinstall them nice and snugly with the prybar and vice-grip
> trick,
> only in reverse! The beauty of this is that the vise-grip marks aren't
> gonna ding-up the bolts internal splines at all! You might make a sharp
> burr that'll stick your finger, but you can file that off if you'd like.
>
> Hope this helps!
>
> Mike B.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Bange" <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:52 AM
> Subject: Re: CV Bolts
>
>
> >
> >
> > So, which is considered "better"? I went by my VW dealer, and when
> > the ordered some, they came in as allen head, not triple squares.
> >
> > They had some triple squares available, but they were slightly
> > shorter (5mm maybe) and the threads didn't extend as far.
> >
>
> I'm probably imagining it, but I think I recall the triple squares people
> use actually being Porsche parts and the "official" VW part is still the
> same E-Z Strip Hex Socket it's always been? Personally, I feel better with
> the triple-squares. All mine were formerly hexies and I had some
> nerve-wracking moments pulling a couple of 'em out. Two of them were
> "pre-buggered" for me by the PO or his butcher mechanic, so I had to
> resort
> to a filed down 7mm hex driver pounded in with a hammer. Working as a
> locksmith I frequently run into rounded- or rusted-out hex socket set
> screws
> and, if they're large enough, they get replaced with a Torx.Maybe I've
> just
> been lucky, but I've never seen a Torx or similar multi-lobe fastener
> strip
> out. Just the thought of trying to remove a completely rounded hex-type CV
> bolt inside that outer hub cavity....(shudder)
>
>
> --
> John Bange
> '90 Vanagon - "Geldsauger"
>
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