Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 17:40:02 -0400
Reply-To: Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Mike Bucchino <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: CV Bolts
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Guys,
'Triple-square' and 'hex' are not the proper terms used for VW's
internal-wrenching bolts. It "6-point' or '12-point'. Here's how to break
torque on a stubborn, rusted or rounded-out VW cv bolt regardless of the
fact that it's a 6 or 12 point type. For inner cv's, put the vehicle up on
jackstands and make sure that the tires are clear enough to rotate freely
(no e-brake on either!). Now, rotate the tire to a spot where it's
comfortable to get at the offending cv bolt. Place a BF screwdriver (or
prybar) close to the axle above one adjacent bolt and below another adjacent
bolt so that the forces of loosening the bolt will be opposed by this lever.
This will prevent the axle from rotating while you're applying as much
torque as necessary to break loose the offending bolt. Now, use the proper
3/8" drive 6 or 12 point bit tool on your breaker/ ratchet or flex handle if
it's a good, clean cv bolt. If it's a screwed-up cv bolt, use large,
toothy vice-grips installed as tightly as possible on the smooth outside of
the cv bolt head to break torque and loosen it a bit. Now you can finish
removal by hand or using you special tool, as it'll spin freely now. I've
done this trick on Beetles, Busses, Vanagons, Rabbits, Golfs, Jettas, Audis,
Porsches, etc., when drastic measures became necessary.
You're now saying, ".......but wait! That trick won't help me with the
OUTER cv bolts on the Vanagon!" Those one's are hiding way deep inside the
dark inner recesses of the box steel trailing arm.......... but that's also
easily addressed by my OTHER secret trick.............
Before you jack up the van and set it on jackstands, for this minor
surgical procedure, break the big 46MM axle nut(s) loose on the desired axle
assembly (or both, if planning on doing cv boots and grease repacking work).
Can you see where this is leading? You don't want to remove the axle
nuts totally yet, just loosen them up so that they're free spinning and
ready to go when the time is right. Now, set'er up on the jackstands, as I
described before, and remove all the inner cv bolts, so that you can drop
the axle's inner cv end off of the trans axle flange. Now, remove your axle
nut completely, and slide that puppy right outta there! Look at those
grungy outer cv bolts, blinking cause of the bright lights in their eyes!
Now, use the pry bar and vice-grip trick on those bad larry's, as necessary!
As a Mexican friend of mine once said,
"No problem!!!!!! .............and if there IS a problem??????.........NO
PROBLEM!!!!!!!"
Now that you've got those thing out of there, think about the next poor
bastard and replace the screwed-up ones with 12-points! Unless you laying
on the side of the road, trying to get'er home. BTDT!
Then, reinstall them nice and snugly with the prybar and vice-grip trick,
only in reverse! The beauty of this is that the vise-grip marks aren't
gonna ding-up the bolts internal splines at all! You might make a sharp
burr that'll stick your finger, but you can file that off if you'd like.
Hope this helps!
Mike B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bange" <jbange@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:52 AM
Subject: Re: CV Bolts
>
>
> So, which is considered "better"? I went by my VW dealer, and when
> the ordered some, they came in as allen head, not triple squares.
>
> They had some triple squares available, but they were slightly
> shorter (5mm maybe) and the threads didn't extend as far.
>
I'm probably imagining it, but I think I recall the triple squares people
use actually being Porsche parts and the "official" VW part is still the
same E-Z Strip Hex Socket it's always been? Personally, I feel better with
the triple-squares. All mine were formerly hexies and I had some
nerve-wracking moments pulling a couple of 'em out. Two of them were
"pre-buggered" for me by the PO or his butcher mechanic, so I had to resort
to a filed down 7mm hex driver pounded in with a hammer. Working as a
locksmith I frequently run into rounded- or rusted-out hex socket set screws
and, if they're large enough, they get replaced with a Torx.Maybe I've just
been lucky, but I've never seen a Torx or similar multi-lobe fastener strip
out. Just the thought of trying to remove a completely rounded hex-type CV
bolt inside that outer hub cavity....(shudder)
--
John Bange
'90 Vanagon - "Geldsauger"
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