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Date:         Wed, 24 May 2006 00:36:18 -0400
Reply-To:     Ian Allan <ian.allan@BMTS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ian Allan <ian.allan@BMTS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Dometic
Comments: To: shawn feller <feller@carboncow.com>
In-Reply-To:  <200605232311189.SM01308@main>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Shawn:

Does the Norcold DC0040 work on propane?

We sell a cooler/freezer (the mfg. name escapes me and I am at home) that comes many ways. A unit like a cooler which sits behind the pass seat, runs on 12 0r120V. A charged battery will run it for 3 days in the summer before auto low voltage shut down (keep in mind this thing freezes). They also have a unit which will install in the box of your choice with the compressor unit up to 5 ft. away. I have thought that the storage bin aft of the fridge would be ok and that the space for the fridge could be converted to storage. Maybe even mount a cat heater on the outside of the fridge door...

I'll get you the name if interested. As I recall they also do Adler Barber 12 volt stuff.

Ian

On 23-May-06, at 11:03 PM, shawn feller wrote:

> The sad thing is no matter how much many on this list defend their > Dometics > I'm very skeptical that they ever ran very well even when new. The two > fans > I've installed behind mine (and one inside) just haven't not done the > job > once the unit is installed. As I mentioned it did well on the bench. > > If I don't get mine working I'm buying a Norcold DC0040 (about $450!) > but as > many on the list have told me I'll be very happy. > > I just don't want to admit defeat. > > Have you pulled yours and done the "flip" yet? My fridge was dead and > many > recommended the process. After flipping for 24 hours over a three day > period > (3 flips) it came back to life. The ammonia gets in a gel state...maybe > yours is not mixed well? > > Shawn > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ian Allan [mailto:ian.allan@bmts.com] > Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 11:01 PM > To: shawn feller > Subject: Re: Dometic > > Thanks for your interest Shawn. It does seem to me that the longer the > fridge runs in warm conditions the less efficient it gets. Consistent > with heat build up around the coils. > > We run into a similar situation with compressor drive fridges in > confined spaces in boats, The solution there is water cooling the > condenser. Same idea- get rid of the heat that has been stripped from > the fridge interior. > > Ian > > > On 23-May-06, at 9:43 AM, shawn feller wrote: > >> Ian, >> >> I've done some extensive testing and work on my Dometic. I rewired for >> my >> unique needs and here is what I've learned. >> >> The original ventilation on the back is inadequate and so it attaching >> 12v >> computer fans as many have. My fridge bench tested perfect down to 28 >> degrees on 110v and propane (12v sucked) but when I installed it I was >> having trouble getting down below 45 degrees! I'm still working out >> some >> better ways of getting airflow behind the unit. >> >>> From what I understand when you switch to 110v/12v the thermal >>> decoupler >> should turn off the propane. Why yours is getting brighter is a bit >> odd. The >> LED is controlled by a microvoltage generated by the thermalcoupler. >> The >> voltage is stepped up so that it may be viewed via the LED in the >> small >> board behind the LED. It should not increase with heat. Even if your >> system >> allows for propane and (110v or 12v) at the same time you will most >> likely >> only damage the ammonia mix in the system. We did tests of running the >> 12v >> and 110v together and it made little improvement on lowering the temp >> but >> did increase the heat on the backside to alarming temps. You will >> damage the >> system with excessive heat. >> >> Make sure you flow test (pressure test) you propane output. I found >> that >> mine was a bit low and was able to tweek up the flow with the >> adjustable >> regulator. A slight increase in propane flow will allow for a slightly >> higher flame in the back, thus more heat and less cooling. Don't tweak >> this >> if you don't know what you are doing! >> >> I think if you are seeing fluxuation I would suggest getting the heat >> disapated in the back better. >> >> Shawn >> Ohio >> 1986 GL Westy >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On >> Behalf Of >> Ian Allan >> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 10:50 PM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Dometic >> >> Hi; I have some questions about Dometic fridges: >> >> I have a remote temp sensor in the fridge a have been monitoring the >> action on a household thermometer which has a memory function that >> allows you to check min and max temps since the last time you reset >> the >> memory. >> >> 1) What is the usual range of interior temp with the setting on >> coldest >> and the fridge running on propane? >> >> It seems that my fridge will cycle through a range of about 15 >> degrees >> (F) from coldest to warmest during the cooling cycle. >> >> It also seems that there is a time just before the temperature begins >> to drop that the temperature rises rapidly, almost as if the fridge is >> heating the interior rather than cooling. >> >> 2) What is the effect of turning on the 12 volt or 120 volt >> switch >> without turning off the gas? I have noted that the heat led got >> brighter (indicating more heat I think) but I chickened out on leaving >> both heat sources on simultaneously fearing that I might damage >> something. >> >> Thanks >> Ian >> >> > > >


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