I did this 2 weeks ago. A caliper rebuild is pretty easy, and I had ordered the seals from Bus Depot, so I had what I needed. I also replaced the rubber brake lines, rotors and bearings at the same time, as overheating the grease will kill its lubricity. My old bearings turned out to be okay, but the rotors were shot, and I saved myself the joy of getting the old races out of the old rotors. When Haynes says to use a piece of wood to catch the caliper piston, they aren't kidding. That sucker flies out without much coaxing from compressed air. I used a wood paint stirrer, and the second piston broke it. Upon inspecting the cylinder bore, I saw a little ridge of rust in both calipers on the wall of the bore that would be at the bottom. Infrequent bleeding of the brakes leaves hydraulic fluid that traps water and invites corrosion. That little ridge was enough to hang up the piston and cause caliper drag. I put a little cup-shaped wire wheel of small enough diameter on my cordless drill and carefully touched up just the ridges. It didn't take too much effort to remove the ridge, and upon rebuilding the calipers I now have relatively free-turning rotors except when the brakes are applied. On 6/7/06, George Wietor <wietorg@yahoo.com> wrote: > > Van O'White's left front wheel is overheating and > grease is leaking out. > Pulling the caliper reveals that the bearings, rotor, > pads, slider pins are all fine. Retracting the caliper > piston with a C-clamp solves the problem ...until the > next time brakes are applied.... > Should I replace the caliper? Attempt a driveway > rebuild per Haynes? any advice respectfully and > gratefully considered. George in Grand Rapids. > Pedalling to work as per usual. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com >
-- Cheers! David McCallum '89 Westy - "Boris" |
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