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Date:         Sun, 4 Jun 2006 18:22:09 -0700
Reply-To:     Mike Meuser <mike@HISTORICALSCALEMODELS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike Meuser <mike@HISTORICALSCALEMODELS.COM>
Subject:      udpate speaker - hammer works
In-Reply-To:  <4483102D.13326.B82A9B@localhost>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Another westy owner with the OEM threaded housing contacted me off line. So, I quickly went out and popped my speakers out before the silicon dried. this is what I did.

I removed the two large philips screws from the bank of the air conditioning cabinet. From the front of the cabinet, I slid the rings through the hole making sure that the speaker wires came through the screw rings. Then I put the speaker in place using masking tape to hold it there. Next I went to back of housing, reached way in and was able to thread the retainer ring onto the rear of the speaker. Once tight, I returned to the front of the speaker and carefully used a pair of large needle nose pliers opened wide to turn the speaker a 1/4 turn or so to tighten up. I did take care to remove all the silicon so that getting them out won't be a problem in the future.

Here's another tip from this guy. The speakers are glued into the grill/threaded housing so if you want to retain the OEM look like I do (no screws), you can find 3-1/2" aftermarket speakers and glue them in place and then add a subwoofer in your underseat compartment if you like, just like my helpful firend did.

Since I destroyed my original grill/housing/rings, I'm still in the market for two OEM speakers with the threaded housing and retaining ring.

On 4 Jun 2006 at 16:54, Mike Meuser wrote:

> Hi - Well, in my no screws OEM speaker saga, the only thing that > worked short of taking apart most all the rear cabinets was to use a > hammer. the speakers push into the cabinet hole and then have a ring > on the back that screws on to hold it in place. On my OEM A/C > equipped 87 westy there was no easy access to the back and turning > from the front, spun both the speaker and the retaining ring. > > So... I hit each speaker square in the middle with a hammer nocking > the guts of it into the cabinet. then I used a hacksaw blade to cut > through enough to cut both the speaker houseing and the ring without > damagin the cabinet at all. I did this twice per speaker -- at 12 > o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. then the retaining ring fell off > readily and the speaker was extracted. > > Rather than using retaining rings to hold the new OEM blaupunkts in > place (since I have no access), I used small dabs of silicon which > should make them easily removable if the need ever arises. > > So... end of saga although I am definetly in the market for a couple > of OEM speakers so I can replace the ones I just stole from my 83- > 1/2. > > On 4 Jun 2006 at 14:48, Mike Meuser wrote: > > > Maybe the 83-1/2 and 87 are different then. I can see no screws. > > The door speakers are same as rear cabinet speakers, both have > > plastic clips that spring out when speaker is pushed into location. > > I checked the manual and it describes a process of removing the A/C > > venting -- around 20 screws under plastic caps, then lowering the > > rear cabinet to gain access to the speakers -- a major job. > > > > Maybe the ones with screws are aftermarket replacements, but I'd > > love to know how to get the OEM speakers out of there without > > dissassembling most of the rear cabinetry and A/C. > > > > thnx > > > > On 4 Jun 2006 at 11:42, Loren Busch wrote: > > > > > RE: Replacing rear speakers > > > BTDT just a couple of months ago, but in a '90 Westy w/air. As > > > Joy pointed out, four screws per speaker, they just drop out. > > > Replaced with upgraded speakers from Crutchfield, a littl > > > clearance issue but a rotary rasp took care of that. Same for the > > > front but no clearance issues there, five minute job per door. > > > > > >


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