Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:45:27 -0400
Reply-To: robert shawn feller <carboncow@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: robert shawn feller <carboncow@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: radiator fan troubleshooting
In-Reply-To: <4253a4a60606120945k7d6a78e0nd52f8adb93b600ae@mail.gmail.com>
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I'll reply down in the text area.
On 6/12/06, Rob Campbell <mantid@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all-
>
> Advanced warning: I'm essentially an automotive novice, learning all I
> can
> about Vanagon issues as they come up. Van in question is a manual 1987 GL
> Westy (stock 2.1l), in generally excellent condition with no other major
> issues aside from what is below.
>
> I've noticed recently that my "stage 1" cooling fan operation doesn't seem
> to work while driving. What does happen is that when stuck in traffic,
> the
> "stage 2" fan will come on, extremely loudly, as the temp needle is about
> 3/4 high (in previous 2 years I'd never seen it go above halfway, and
> never
> heard this very loud fan stage except for a few very steep mountain
> passes).
>
> Today I verified, however, that the "stage 1" (normal, not so loud) fan
> did
> come on when the van is turned off. It came on about 1 minutes after
> parking and shutting off the engine. So it seems my fan does work, but
> something is wrong with the temp sensing system?
>
> I found this article:
>
> http://www.vanagain.com/How2fan.htm
There is also a great article at www.gowesty.com, search their library
section about how the fan system works. he goes into great detail about it.
Which seems pretty straightforward. I have a couple questions, and would
> like to solicit general advice.
>
> 1) I assume that the steps in that article should be done with engine off,
> but battery still connected. Is this correct? Pretty simple, I know, but
> want to make sure.
the fan will run with the vehicle off for testing purposes, as you found out
about your cooling fan going on after you stop the engine. it can be hard
to hear the low speed fan while even idling. additionally simply running on
the a/c fan (if you have it) will engage the low speed fan to for testing
purposes.
2) Is there a part I should order in advance based on my symptoms (the
> "radiator fan sending unit" or "resistor"? I'd rather fix it all at once.
i doubt it is the resister from what i understand. that would be more the
case if you didn't get a difference between high and low speed when
connecting the two connections you will jumper in the test. if the vehicle
is not your daily driver then do the tests and if something needs replaced
wait till then. i hate to see you buy parts you don't need. you van is 20
years old like mine and many of use have recently replaced our radiators to
get the temp down on the gauge. we are finding they are constricted inside
and now allowing proper dissipation and cooling.
of course you have replaced or tested your thermostat? this is
heating/cooling 101.
additionally you have checked and bled the system? this is a huge reason to
get overheating if there is air in the system.
3) Any other guidance or elaboration on the above article I should know
> about?
the cooling systems are fairly simple in process but look a bit more
complicated in routing in the vanagons. basically if you are truly running
warm you have only a couple choices.
1. thermostat is stuck closed or somewhere in between being open and cool
2. blockage in system (usually radiator)
3. leaks or faulty water pump (visible leaking at unit or bearing grinding)
4. air in the system
5. sensors not operating correctly. If you are cooling at highway speeds but
going up around town then this is a possibility. if you are running warm at
all rpm/speed i would look for #4, #1 and then #2 in that order.
am i missing anything else gang?
Shawn
thanks,
> rob in Long Beach, CA
>
--
shawn feller, ohio
1986 Vw Vanagon GL Westfalia
1993 Vw Eurovan GL
www.carboncow.com
www.carboncow.net
