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Date:         Mon, 26 Jun 2006 13:42:14 -0400
Reply-To:     dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: dometic pilot goes out when thermostat turned up
Comments: To: Roger Sisler <rogersisler2000@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <vanagon%2006062611495791@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

This is a fairly common problem. The usual cause is either a blockage or leak in the flue vent system. The pipes are getting old and will sometimes crack. Also there is a gasket for the pan under the combustion chamber that can burn out. Either way, the fridge must come out for inspection.

BTW there is no R12 or any other fluorocarbon based refrigerant in the Westy fridge. It is an absorption system that uses heat, gravity, and some chemical reactions to produce the cooling effect. The primary ingredient is Ammonia.

Dennis

----- Original Message ----- From: Roger Sisler <rogersisler2000@YAHOO.COM> Date: Monday, June 26, 2006 11:45 am Subject: Re: dometic pilot goes out when thermostat turned up

> Are you sure it is going out when you turn the gas up,and not > down? You got > lots of propane? I guess it is either the orifice being clogged at the > burner,or the apparatus at the thremistat. Either needs the frig > removedfrom the van. > > Before removeing the frig, try placing a wet,hot wash cloth of the > top of > the evaperator plate( the aluminum ice cube tray holder). The > thermistatprobe is at the top of this plate. Just a hollow tube > that is 1/16 inch in > diameter and about 2 feet long.It is coiled at the rear ,outside > part of > the frig.It is filled with r12 and will expand, actuating the flame > increase mechinism.Try to heat it up and see what happens as far > as the > burner flame goes. It should increase if the probe was cold. Next > , put an > ice pack on it and see what happens.I think by doing this, you can > overidethe mechanical knob mechinism. Maybe the r12 has leaked > out.This is > probably your problem. > > Next, remove the frig.Clean the orifice with a cleaner then rinse with > alcohol. I used battery acid for a cleaner. The thermiostat knob > assemblymay need to be taken apart and cleaned,but make a > manometer first($2), and > see if the thermiostat is working. > > There is a aluminum bolt like thingie on the thermistat,with a > small screw > in the end. Remove the bolt part and a spring and disk will come > out. Clean > em up and spray some carb cleaner inside.Do this last,after the > manometertest. > > You can make a manometer and attach it to the end of the > orifice(removedfrom the burner, but still attached to the thin > aluminum supply tube. Pull > up yahoo and type in manometer for good instructions to build and > use a > manometer.Use a vynil tube the diameter of the orifice's threaded > part,where it goes into the burner. You can actually see the > collum of water > rise and fall with the two different pressures used for the two > differentflame sizes.If you are not getting this change of > pressures, go to the > above paragraph and take the thermistat apart and clean it.Be > careful and > take note of how the disk is oriented in the bolt thingie.It will > only work > in the proper installation direction. > > > > I have never ever seen any problems ever with the control knobs and > switches on the front of the 182b. Period.None of them. Never a > problem.The problem is always in orifice. the r12 can leak out and > then you may > have a problem with the thermistat on the front of the 182 b. the > probesoes look rather fragile.Very expensive . I think Bus Boys > has it. >


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