Date:         Sat, 1 Jul 2006 13:06:17 -0700
Reply-To:     Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Robert Keezer <warmerwagen@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Power Door Lock Consternation
In-Reply-To:  <20060701133654.57594.qmail@web52215.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Tom,

I went through the same bafflement until I took a
complete harness, two servos, and a battery and
ran the system spread out in the driveway.

What I discovered was that the white and yellow
wires have to have continuity. If you have new
wires,  it's still a good idea to do continuity
testing .

Current is passed back and forth between the 2
masters (Driver and passaenger servo) and drom
the passneger rear-ward.

Any break in the white and yellow wires affects
opening or closing. they will either all open and
not stay locked, or they will all lock and not
stay open.

Or, if water is in the servos, they will open and
close over and over again .

Since you have new servos, it's possible that
your drivers one is not a master-or the power
(red wire ) or the ground (brown ) is broken .

Usually I find thew white or yellow wires broken
and green corroded at the break, perhaps at the
low point where water settles.

Future problem prevention? Keep the power mirrors
as they have a larger surface than the non-power,
and a better rear view . you can manually adjust
them(I just added a pair).
Use dielectric grease at all wire terminals.

Power door locks are nice , I have wanted to
install them on my 82 for the last 12 years.


As been told here before it is a dumb system. One
servo sends a power signal to the others and
their motors run until the switches inside touch
another set of contacts.

Then when the lock is turned the opposite , the
contacts are energized in switched polarity and
the motor runs in reverse direction until the
original set of contacts are reached.  When the
new set of contacts is reached, the cam inside
leaves contact with the old.

It's defintely much more easier to understand
testing outside the vehicle .

Robert

1982 Westfalia

--- Tom Forhan <fourwdvw@YAHOO.COM> wrote:

> A couple of months ago, my 90 went into a full
> lockdown mode - it would do everything it could
> to
> keep all doors locked all the time. You could
> use the
> key to open the driver's door, but the moment
> you
> relaxed turning pressure on the key, all doors
> would
> relock. You could manually open doors from the
> inside
> by lifting the lock button at each door.
>
> After a full circuit trace proved everything
> intact, I
> replaced the drivers side servo with the
> associated
> genuine VW wiring harness. Now everything
> works but
> the drivers door. You can lock and unlock all
> doors
> -including the drivers- from the passenger
> side,
> normal operation. But on the drivers side its
> as if
> locking was manual - no other doors respond.
>
> I'll start retracing the circuits, but thought
> that
> someone with more perspective might use the new
> symptoms to figure out what bonehead error I
> might
> have made.
>
> After twelve years, two doorlock servos, three
> power
> window regulators  maybe goin on four, and
> currently
> dead electric mirrors I'm begining to think a
> conversion to 100% manual operation might be
> the best
> way to get me through the next decade :) .
>
> Thanks for any ideas
>
> Tom F.
>
>
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