Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Wed, 19 Jul 2006 21:36:32 -0400
Reply-To:     Justin Mayrand <jmayrand@METROCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Justin Mayrand <jmayrand@METROCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Oil Change Screwup - HELP!
Comments: To: David Johnson <davidj@ELPASOTEL.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <21D717E8-A1DA-4690-A53B-B93890A78BAA@ELPASOTEL.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Also,

The clip on my ECU has a catch on one side that needs to be engaged to act like a hinge, and then the rest of the connector is pushed on. I did not know this when I installed the new engine and it did not run right until I checked and fixed it. ...JMM

Justin M. Mayrand 1980 Westy "SuperVan"

On Jul 19, 2006, at 8:06 PM, David Johnson wrote:

> Thanks for the input. I actually was restless enough I went out and > pulled everything apart again, and looked. I learned two things. > > 1. There is no way I could have done what I was afraid of doing. > The nut was perhaps a bit over tight, but not enough to put major > torque on the bolt sticking down. > > 2. I have no oil screen. The screen cover is there, with a stiff > and brittle gasket (so I will replace that) but there is no oil > screen. Just empty space. So, I will probably track a screen down, > even though as you say, the filter will catch the gunk anyway. > Anybody have any thoughts on that? > > So, having satisfied my fears there, I went further along my "repair > trail." When I had changed the air filter, I had pulled the main, > keyed electrical connection to the fuel injection control module > (before I realized I didn't have to do that, yes, newbie error). I > went back to that point and looked again, and found one of the pin > receptors there had gotten pushed back in so it was not making good > contact, or contact at all perhaps, to the pin farthest over to the > passenger side of the vehicle. I will use a hemostat to pull that > out after I get the oil screen in town tomorrow, and hope that solves > the stuttering problem. It certainly would make sense to me, since I > recall the Air Flow Control system makes a shift in the way it > operates when the engine warms up. Since I had gotten just far > enough down the road to really warm the engine up, and the stutter > really only happened when the engine was at higher revs, I am > hopefully this will solve the problem. > > On that note, anyone know the what the pins are on the AFC control > module going from left (driver) to right (passenger) side? > > thanks for all the help - what a great list and community! > David. > > On Jul 19, 2006, at 5:39 PM, Justin Mayrand wrote: > >> Hey All, >> >> In short, no. >> >> On my 1980 Westy, I remove this cover w/ every oil change (as well >> as the drain plug), to get all the oil out and to clean/check the >> screen. I have always reused the old gasket, and have zero leaks >> (this is after about 6 or 7 oil changes). I have yet to find >> anything in the screen (because of the oil filter, of course), but >> still pull it. ...JMM >> >> Justin M. Mayrand >> 1980 Westy "SuperVan" >> >> On Jul 19, 2006, at 5:43 PM, David Johnson wrote: >> >>> Ok. I think I have messed up big time, but want feedback. I was >>> getting Blue Midget, my 1980 Vanagon Westy ready for a trip over the >>> weekend. As part of this, I went ahead and did an oil change (first >>> time on this car). But I didn't ready my John Muir completely >>> before >>> I did it, and so I screwed at least one thing up, but I am wondering >>> about more. >>> >>> 1. When I drained the oil, I saw the big disc shaped thing with a >>> bolt in it, and figured that was the drain plug. So I undid the >>> bolt >>> (13mm), and it was a huge mess. As I finished draining the oil from >>> this, I saw the larger bolt that I then figured out was the drain >>> plug. So no problem, but a mess. >>> >>> 2. Did the filter, but then realized I didn't have a new gasket for >>> the disc cover thingy. But I saw a gasket up in around it, so I >>> thought I might be able to just tighten it a little more and make >>> the >>> seal work. Engine started right up, no leak problem obvious, oil >>> pressure light flickered for a minute, but then went off, and no >>> other problem. Also did the air filter at the same time, but that >>> was easy. >>> >>> 3. The following AM, got on the road, and about 5 miles along, >>> started to get a hesitation while running. It was almost like it >>> was >>> running out of gas, except the fuel tank was full (or like the >>> clutch >>> was slipping). So, turned right around, limped it home, shut it >>> off. I did not get a chance to check if the engine was overly hot. >>> Switched over to our Eurovan for the trip, and went camping anyway. >>> >>> 4. Now, I have read the John Muir "compleat idiot" guide more >>> thoroughly, and talked to my Dad who used to have a Bug. He said >>> overheating can cause a similar symptom, which if somehow I impeded >>> the flow of oil, would lead to overheating, of course. And then I >>> read in the "compleat idiot" guide that if I torque the oil screen >>> bolt down more than 9lb it will damage the cam shaft. Problem is, >>> the piece I was working on was not a bolt, it was a nut. There is a >>> little bolt coming down that this nut goes onto and holds the >>> disc in >>> place. >>> >>> So. Did I completely f* up my car by ignorance? What gasket am I >>> actually asking for to seal this disc if I have to redo things? I >>> asked for an oil screen gasket at Autozone on the way home, but it >>> seemed far too large and more complicated than what I pulled off. >>> >>> Any help would be really welcome here - I want to get this car fixed >>> again if I can, but need to know what I am up against. Until I >>> get a >>> solution, I am not driving it of course, as if I was running with >>> too >>> little oil, I already took 10,000 miles off the engine anyway. >>> Thanks in advance. >>> >>> David. >> >>


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