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Date:         Wed, 2 Aug 2006 21:19:35 -0600
Reply-To:     Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Subject:      Re: LP tank valve? problems...
Comments: To: bill@BNNTA.COM
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;

Bill:

If you have the original AutoStop fill valve, you should replace it with an ordinary fill valve and a bleeder valve. Most propane guys do not know how to fill a tank with an AutoStop since one action is counter to normal.

That is, with a normal setup, one opens the bleeder valve a little and start filling the tank. When liquid propane starts to squirt from the bleeder, the tank is full, one shuts off the filling, etc. But for the AutoStop to work, the valve that seems to be a bleeder valve (but isn't exactly) needs to be open ALL THE WAY, for the AutoStop to sense liquid propane and shut off. So most propane guys get it wrong. Plus after all these years, the AutoStop probably needs rebuilding, which you can't do generally.

A new fill valve and bleeder valve should cost <$40-50. You can install them yourself or have an RV dealer do it. Then you are ready for any doofus to fill you tank. ;-)

As for your situation now, a good RV dealer should quickly be able to figure it out. BUT, you need to show them the manual on the AutoStop, since they will make the wrong assumption on how to deal with it. If you keep the AutoStop, you should always make sure when filling that the propane guy understand how to "operate" the AutoStop.

While you are at it, replace the shutoff valve and the regulator, since they are probably ready. Don't let anybody tell you to get a new tank. The tank is bomb-proof and does not have to be "re-certified", etc. Tell them it is an ASME tank and see the file I'm attaching. If you have to have anew regulator installed, make sure they check it to put out 11" water pressure; a good RV shop will normally do this. This might be the sign of a "good" RV shop....

A general rule is that a full tank (2.5 gal of propane) will last two weeks of camping--fridge and cooking.

Richard A Jones Boulder, Colorado


In the USA, the National Fire Protection Association code is generally used, although any state may impose additional conditions on anything forming part of a motor vehicle. The NFPA code requires that any container showing serious denting, bulging, gouging or excessive corrosion be removed from service. Tanks must be marked in accordance with DOT, ASME or API-ASME codes. If marked with either of the ASME codes, requalification is required only if involved in a fire. If marked with a DOT code, it is good for 12 years from the date of the manufacturer's mark. A DOT container may be requalified for 12 years if fully hydrostatically tested (tank expansion measured), for 7 years with a simple hydrostatic test to twice working pressure, or for 5 years with a "carefully made and duly recorded visual examinatio n by a competent person". The visual inspection can cost as little as $4 - it's the way to go.

http://www.sankey.ws/rvwinter.html


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