Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 18:23:31 -0400
Reply-To: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: CENTral locking funny ...
In-Reply-To: <003f01c6d77c$18acc450$2f01a8c0@FirstLaptop>
Content-Type: multipart/mixed;
Zoltan,
Look for a thread started from a question by Tom Forhan, on either this
list or the syncro@yahoogroups list sometime in the last 6 or so months.
I think he had a similar problem. Or you can search for power lock in
the subject line in the last year.
Also attached are two files about power lock repair. Didn't re-read
them so don't know if they address your particular problem. They are
both from recent months so they may have the response.
I am so tired from having to add the list address to this email. It was
a major struggle. :<)
Sam
--
Sam Walters
Baltimore, MD
89 Syncro GL, Zetec Inside
85 Westy Weekender
85 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbodiesel - to become veggie oil powered
All incoming and outgoing email scanned by
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- Brent Weide wrote:
> It's one of the many common ailments in the vanagons,
> afflicting mostly those with power locks.
yeah, that'd be me.
> There is a very small spring which serves to keep
> the sliding door lock button from allowing gravity
> to let it slip down and lock.
...
> Remove the small black plastic cap from the sliding
> door lock button. Cut a short (about 1/4") piece of
> plastic tubing and slide it over the lock button shaft.
...
> gives it enough friction not to slide down on it's own.
sounds good but in my case there's a whole lot more than gravity
keeping my door locked. it feels like a spring is pulling that black
knob down, and friction probably isn't going to hold it up. too bad,
sounds like a really good idea.
are new lock assemblies prohibitively expensive? looks like i might
have to rip into the lock assembly, which sounds like an adventure.
thanks for the help!
m.
Tom,
I went through the same bafflement until I took a
complete harness, two servos, and a battery and
ran the system spread out in the driveway.
What I discovered was that the white and yellow
wires have to have continuity. If you have new
wires, it's still a good idea to do continuity
testing .
Current is passed back and forth between the 2
masters (Driver and passaenger servo) and drom
the passneger rear-ward.
Any break in the white and yellow wires affects
opening or closing. they will either all open and
not stay locked, or they will all lock and not
stay open.
Or, if water is in the servos, they will open and
close over and over again .
Since you have new servos, it's possible that
your drivers one is not a master-or the power
(red wire ) or the ground (brown ) is broken .
Usually I find thew white or yellow wires broken
and green corroded at the break, perhaps at the
low point where water settles.
Future problem prevention? Keep the power mirrors
as they have a larger surface than the non-power,
and a better rear view . you can manually adjust
them(I just added a pair).
Use dielectric grease at all wire terminals.
Power door locks are nice , I have wanted to
install them on my 82 for the last 12 years.
As been told here before it is a dumb system. One
servo sends a power signal to the others and
their motors run until the switches inside touch
another set of contacts.
Then when the lock is turned the opposite , the
contacts are energized in switched polarity and
the motor runs in reverse direction until the
original set of contacts are reached. When the
new set of contacts is reached, the cam inside
leaves contact with the old.
It's defintely much more easier to understand
testing outside the vehicle .
Robert
1982 Westfalia
