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Date:         Tue, 19 Sep 2006 21:04:33 +0000
Reply-To:     dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good one for
              any one up for a challenge.
Comments: cc: Kath Gene <Kath_Gene@STVRAIN.K12.CO.US>
In-Reply-To:  <e27ef85f55d8.45105acd@optonline.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

----- Original Message ----- From: Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 5:02 pm Subject: Re: Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good one for any one up for a challenge. To: Kath Gene , Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM,

> Sounds like the either the wires to the switches are reversed or > you have the wrong switch in place. > The high pressure switch is located near the oil or water pump. > The low pressure switch is between the push rod tubes, (center > cam bearing) on the drivers side. > > th elow pressure switch is normally closed, circuit completed to > ground when there is no oil pressure such as the engine is not > running. The switch opens or disconnects the circuit when > pressure rises above, 2.5 or 3.0 psi depending on switch. The > light should have a steady blink with this switch closed. > > The high pressure switch is opposite. It is normally open and > closes when the oil pressure is above ~12.7 psi, completing the > circuit to ground. The Dynamic oil pressure control board looks > at this switch above ~2,200 rpm. If the circuit is not complete, > you should have both the flashing light and buzzer. > > The 2 wire connecter is a common source of failure here. It can > look good and tight corrosion on the wires or connectors will > often cause the false hi pressure alarm. > > Dennis > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Kath Gene > Date: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 3:25 pm > Subject: Oil pressure alarm problems problems--this is a good > one for any one up for a challenge. > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > > I have searched the Archives and not found my exact problems. > > > > > > History on the van: > > > > > > I have an '86 camper with 110k miles. I recently bought it > > after it had > > been sitting for about 4 years. The only modifications that I > > can see > > is a different radio and speakers. Otherwise the Van is as it > > came from > > Volkswagen. This is a very pristine and extremely well cared > > for van. I > > have not actually checked the oil pressure although I have > > absolutely no > > signs of an oil pressure loss (no lifter noises, rough > running, oil > > light at start-up). I have a crappy (Fram) oil filter (temporarily)I > > plan on changing the oil after I go through the first tank of > > gas and > > putting on a quality one. But I do have 20/50 oil in it. > > > > > > > > The issue: > > > > The problem I'm having sounds very ordinary but is getting > more > > and more > > weird. As I start the engine and drive away EVERY time, > > regardless of > > engine temp, when the engine gets to about 2200 rpm's the oil > > light and > > buzzer go on and stay on until I restart the ignition. I have > > no low > > rpm flickering and it will not shut off no matter what the > rpm's > > and the > > light ans buzzer NEVER turn off unless I restart the ignition. > > > > > > > > What I've done so far: > > > > I replaced the high side oil sender with a 0.9 bar unit > > yesterday to > > absolutely no change in the behavior. I also checked > continuity from > > the sending units to the plug on the back of the instrument > > cluster and > > found that I have continuity from the high pressure sender to the > > cluster but not from the low pressure sender to the cluster. This > > really throws me since I assumed that would turn the light and > > buzzer on > > immediately upon start-up since it appears it is not getting a > > signal on > > start-up. I also disconnected the plug that both sensors go through > > (the one in the engine bay) and ran the engine--absolutely no > > change in > > the symptoms buzzer came on at 2200ish rpm's. Scratched my > head and > > butt. > > > > > > Where I think I should go next: > > > > 1. I'm going to recheck the continuity between the senders and > > the dash > > connector. > > > > 2. Check the resistance to ground of both sending units to > make sure > > that they are sending a signal. > > > > 3. I am going to explore the idea of the oil pressure relief spring > > that may be hanging open. > > > > > > 4. I am going to explore the idea of some printed circuit > > behind the > > spedo and tach that can go bad but people have told me that > they > > rarelyfail. > > > > > > 5 look into a possibility of a relay in the system somewhere > > that is > > failing. > > > > > > Any ideas will not be ignored--please help!!!! > > > > Gene Kath > > >


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