Date:         Sat, 30 Sep 2006 16:19:35 -0700
Reply-To:     Zeitgeist <gruengeist@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Zeitgeist <gruengeist@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Hall Sender Removal Tips
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Long story short:  I recently did some preventative/periodic maintenance on
the van, and now it's exhibiting a symptom, whereby it runs fine until warm,
then will lose power and only run at maybe 3500rpm max for a indefinite
period, then magically regain full access to all 90 scorching horsepower.

I replaced the following:


   1. O2 sensor (removed my used single wire Rabbit version with a new
   universal three-spliced-wire setup)  I've since disconnected the O2 wire, to
   see if it changes anything, but it hasn't
   2. Plugs/rotor/dist-cap
   3. fuel/air filter
   4. Plenum hoses
   5. All new engine compartment fuel injection hoses.

Additionally, I noticed that my hall sender electrical connector has
recently broken and now moves freely.   I'm worried that it's got some
intermittent short inside the distributor.  So, I went out to the wrecking
yard today and located a Volvo 240 distributor, from which I was able to
remove the hall sender assembly.   They appear to use nearly the exact same
dist-housing.

My question to you experienced obsessive types, is, what techniques have you
used to successfully remove the drift pin down at the base of distributor,
without harming the distributor?  I've tried so far, but have been
thwarted.  I ended up using heat and a Dremel to disassemble the Volvo
distributor, but that's not an option with this one.

TIA

--
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (218k)
'84 300D (216k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG