Date:         Tue, 10 Oct 2006 15:38:14 -0600
Reply-To:     David Etter <detter@MAIL.AURACOM.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Etter <detter@MAIL.AURACOM.COM>
Subject:      Re: Rust on hookup panel on Westy
In-Reply-To:  <B3D9840D3F5A8847A28683EC1D17B84D7B565F@mta1.obpa.usda.gov>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hi Gerry:
        Why not take this opportunity to finally get rid of the
problem all together.
I removed all 3 'hoohup' covers and had the body man weld in a new
smooth patch where there is narry a trace of a camper outlet.
        The reasoning is...
The high pressure water entry point was never used as we never hooked
up to a campground or household water system. The high pressure is
always an inherent problem both with the poorly designed tap and the
chance for fast and significant flooding were a leak to develop.
        The trickle in water tank fill up hole was always slow and
difficult to tell when full, and we always filled from the inside
anyway for those reasons.
        The electrical outlet was invariably on the wrong side and
also subject to leakage so I moved the outlet to a place at the back
just to the right of the left hand tail lights. I also used a real
nice RV quality 120 volt outdoor outlet with a good heavy sprung lid.
The benefits are that it is tucked under the lip of the rear door
thus out of the rain and it is easier to plug in when parked either
at home or in the campground..
        Just something to consider.
Good Luck!
                                David (dsl82westy)

P.S.: Re: Removing the inside cabinets.
        It IS necessary to remove the cabinet if the body man is to
work on the panel.Start with removing the outside fridge vent.( mark
with a pen which way is up and forward for each piece) Inside - start
with the fridge door (lift and remove). Remove the fridge door frame
( 3 screws - 2 bottom & one top) . Remove the silverware drawer, then
disconnect the 120 volt and 12 volt cables under the sink leading
behind the fridge. Use a 21 mm ( I think) wrench and undo the propane
hose (MAKE SURE THE PROPANE IS TURNED OFF - CHECK BY LIGHTING THE
STOVE THEN TURNING OFF THE VALVE)
        Remove the 4 screws ( 2 per side in the side cabinets)
holding in the fridge. Lift the front - pull and tilt way down at the
back. Westfalia made a poor design in the shelf under the stove. It
directly blocks you from pulling the fridge straight out. Cut a 5
inch semi-circle in that fridge before reinstalling the fridge. It
will make the job of fridge installation & removal so much easier the
next time. B.T.W. : take this opportunity to clean the fire box and
propane nozzle. Once you are familar with this procedure you will be
able to pull the fridge in 20 minutes, clean in 25 minutes and
reinstall in 25 minutes.
        Once the fridge in removed it is a simple matter to start
from behind the drivers seat and remove all pertinent screws and
bolts to access the outside panel.
        Use this time to remove the fibreglass insulation and clean
up any rust in the seams. Use a  wire brush - then use a paint
cleaner/ prep agent - then use a rust buster or similar paint then
when dry use a primer and when dry use a rubberized 'paintable
undercoating'.
        Buy and install a hightech reflectorized insulation or make
your own, just get rid of the fibreglass which holds moisture either
from leakage or condensation.
        If you are going to go with inside water filling then the
water tank fill-up hose can be plugged with rubber or cork plugs,
sealed  and secured with large shrink tubing on the outside.

Good Luck!
                                        David

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


>Well it's time to finally address the rust on the body panel with the
>camper hookups.  Here are some questions I have:
>
>*        Does one have to remove the kitchen/sink cabinets to apply new
>undercoat behind the panel in order to do a proper job?
>
>*        Is it a big deal to remove and reinstall these cabinets?
>
>*        Can a body shop merely cut out the rusty metal from the outside
>and weld a new piece in its place or does he have to replace the entire
>panel?
>
>*        If it's only surface rust, does sandblasting to bare metal and
>painting with POR15 do the job?  The rust only seems to be on this
>panel.
>
>Gerry
>