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Date:         Wed, 15 Nov 2006 08:25:06 -0800
Reply-To:     gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         gary hradek <hradek@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Cooling System dream
Comments: cc: anthonystars@YAHOO.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Anthony, http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0405A&L=vanagon&P=R11634&m=234470 Hope you put in a new waterpump when you did the earlier work. How does is run with the heater on full blast?

Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 17:25:42 -0500 From: Anthony Rutland <anthonystars@YAHOO.COM> Subject: Cooling System Nightmare. Sorry for the Old Thread

I couldnt find any info regarding my current cooling challenge.

87 syncro. Sat for past 1-1/2 years with a dead stock motor. Blew up in November of 2004. Replaced with AVP rebuild (37K miles on it) and bled cooling system. All systems normal. Temp gauge on top of LED as usual.

Fan starts acting funny. Replaced thermoswitch and thermostat. Both stock temperature. Bought from Volks Cafe in Santa Cruz. I know I got air into the system as i did not get the new thermoswitch in fast enough.

Installed and system will not bleed properly now. I have tried bleeding on 4 consecutive nights. Coolant temp gauge STILL reads 2/3-3/4 high instead of typical halfway. It was just fine until I did the swap. Does not continue to heat up unless idling in which instance the fan does NOT come on. Shorted wires and confirmed operation high speed and low.

At my wits end. Replaced radiator in 2001. Could it be bad already? Coolant is hot at radiator bleed screw. Bleeding by the book.

Can anyone confirm that with the stock 87 degree thermostat and thermoswitch the coolant gauge reads typical halfway mark over LED? Before I go out and buy a lower temp thermostat and switch?

Please help before I have to spend money at a shop! I hate that!

Anthony Rutland 87 Syncro I had reached a point where I was thinking of > >replacing my radiator because I did not want to use > >the flush chemicals on the engine and the labor of > >removing to flush the old radiator did not appeal > to > >me. This is what I ended up doing and it worked > >great. > > 1) jack up the right rear and remove the hose > >clamps from the two big hoses that attach to the > big > >pipes. Turn heater valves off. I disconnected the > >return line at the pipe and the other line at the > big > >plastic T. > > 2) Find the needed spare hoses and clamps to > >mate a garden hose to either end of the now openned > >radiator loop. > >If you have replaced that plastic T the old one > works > >as a good bridge. All waste water needs to be > directed > >down, captured and inspected > > 3) Force HOT water through the loop at full > >house pressure capturing the water for inspection. > >Do a burst of 2-3 gallons so that you do not > deplete > >your hot water. Do this in both directions. > > 4) Cork the ends of the loop, about a 7-8 cork > >number and fill the radiator with syphon using a > step > >ladder and a bucket of hot water and 1 cup/gallon > >cascade dishwasing soap. Allow to soak overnight > > 5) After flushing out the soap fill with a 0.2 > >molar citric acid and allow to soak for a week. > > 6) Flush the system again. When you capture > the > >first flush you will see what has been lurking in > your > >radiator. > > I can not overstate the need for the water to > be > >hot and of a good pressure. The kind of pressure > you > >can achieve with this method is greater than any > whole > >engine flush or cutting and adding the flush T. > The > >mate beween the garden hose and the big pipe needs > to > >be as leak free as possible. The citric acid will > do > >wonders for good clogged radiator but it will make > >leaks worse in a radiator that needs to be > replaced. > >If you are concerned about using any chemicals > always > >test it with aluminum foil first. > > regards gary > >ps remember to always open the heater valves when > >refilling the system. Make it go easier >

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