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Date:         Wed, 20 Dec 2006 21:05:02 +0000
Reply-To:     dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <dhaynes@OPTONLINE.NET>
Subject:      Re: Electrical genuis-es here is one for you..
Comments: To: Don Hanson <dhanson@GORGE.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <000f01c72472$c707d740$5819e442@dhanson>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Yes, you most likely need a ground from the alternator to the body. This can make a big difference. If I remember correctly, there is also a multi-pin thermo time switch under the water outlet, just under the temp sensor. This sensor goes bad frequently. There is actually some circuitry and logic in that switch made of unobtanium. It think it is ~$80. It can cause all sorts of grief including hard starts, no idle, etc.

Dennis

----- Original Message ----- From: Don Hanson Date: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 3:15 pm Subject: Electrical genuis-es here is one for you.. To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM

> I've had this intermittent recurring problem on my 84 (with an > inline 4 1.8L Cabriolet motor.'.92 with the digafant EFI.. I've > tried lots of stuff to fix/find the problem and I thought I'd > done so, but today it is back... > Here's what happens: I may have two concurrent problems, but > the main one it the EFI switches on to 'full rich' mode and > causes the van to barely run. (This sometimes is more prone to > occur if I 'drop-throttle and coast down..but I think that is a > secondary problem with a throttle control switch...) I have > found, by further diagnostic fussing about with controls and > switches during this rich condition, that it only happens if > the front heater blower motor is switched on..Is that wierd, > or what? So, driving along, everything running sweet and turn > on the blower...in a few seconds, a few cylinders start to drop > out and the van idles rough, pouring smelly rich exhaust..But, > turn off the blower and in a few more seconds, the plugs clean > themselves up and she purrs again.. Ah, yes. If I switch off > the whole ignition and turn it back on, it will run clean for > maybe 5 seconds, then "load up" again.. > When I switch on the blower for the heater, I can hear a relay > clunk up under the dash somewhere around the radio or above the > central heater 'shroud' which hides all the cables, etc. Could > this be some faulty relay behavior causing the wierdness? > So far, I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor, and > that seemed to stop the richness for a while...3-4 50 mile > jaunts..Now it is back. I also cleaned the engine/chassis > ground..and plan to install a second one other than just the one > going from the front of the tranny to the frame..Perhaps my > ground is inadequate..Something weird is going on with the > electrical load... > Another data point is that I installed a second battery, > wiring it direct to the other battery with a solenoid in line. > The solenoid is powered from a connection near the steering > column that I found has power when the ignition is on, but when > the starter is activated, there is no power..I have a second > switch in that line for those times when I want all the juice to > charge the starter battery only...The secondary battery can be > 'active or inactive' in the system..that makes no difference > with the 'rich run' condition...only the front heater blower > causes that to happen... > So, there is the puzzler...any Gen-u-wine electrical trouble > shooting genius' out there want to take a stab at this one? > > Don Hanson >


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