Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2007 08:28:31 -0700
Reply-To: Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Richard A Jones <jones@COLORADO.EDU>
Subject: instructions for making Vanagon curtains--long
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Here are instructions for making curtains for a Vanagon.
This text and the photos mentioned are at
http://jones.colorado.edu/jones/VWcurtains
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Vanagon Curtains
This is information to make curtains to fit a Vanagon based on an
'81 aircooled 7-passenger that I have--Mr Bus:
http://jones.colorado.edu/jones/nebr.jpg
also featured in:
http://jones.colorado.edu/jones/DV
where you can see the curtains in the second photo.
I had a '61 and a '67 that I built primitive campers in; I made
curtains similar to these for both of those. Then with a '76 I
switched to a big tent, no curtains. With the '81 I continued,
but had a table/tupperbox, plus cooler, Coleman stove, 5gal water
bottles, etc, etc. After a downpour night outside of Raton,
New Mexico, we decided that sleeping inside the Vanagon would
be a GOOD THING, so I built a platform bed gizmo that folded
down over the (folded-down) rear seat. We used backpacking pads
and sleeping bags, still had the table/tupperbox and it was
great. We used that from '90 to '01 when I bought the Syncro
Westy and we got STYLE!
Here are the curtain details, evolved from the '61, the '67,
the first try on the '81 and the final version (1994.) The goal
was reasonable privacy in a campground but not total-light-blocking.
In the back country we don't even use curtains. (Side note: my
'81 does not have any film tint on the windows. The Syncro came
with tint. If I went camping in the '81 again, I would immediately
get the windows tinted--both for heat load and privacy.)
Back in '64 my bro had the idea of elastic cord holding the
curtains and using chain links as the anchor points. I still think
that is a slick way to go. Check the photos for details.
Vanagon ('81 7-passenger) window curtain sizes: (I assume that
water-boxers will be the same; Westies need to adjust for the
closet and I suggest that you look at the pictures on the web
and then sketch the panels out as you read.)
Finished sizes, based on measuring to cover the windows:
side windows: 17" high, 43" wide (top and bottom)
rear side windows: 17" high, 36" top, 40" bottom
rear door: 21-1/2" high, 48" top, 56" bottom
windshield: 25" high, 52" top, 60" bottom
front doors: 19-1/2" high, 33" top, 46" bottom
All windows are covered with two panels--except for the
two front doors which are one large panel each.
Trapazoidal shapes: both windshield panels, the two front
door panels, both rear door panels and the rear-of-the-two
rear side window panels are trapazoidal shaped.
All of these look like this:
-------------
| \
| \
| \
| \
------------------
or its mirror image.
OK, how do we transfer these raw dimensions into panel
dimensions? First, we use 1.5X for the width (more or
less) since that is a common factor to add fullness to a
curtain. Then we add 1" on each side to make a hem; total
of 2". For the tubes at the top and bottom we add 1.5"
each; total 3".
My wife adds: the side hems are made by ironing a 1/2" fold, then
folding it over, ironing again, then stiching it closed.
They looks 1/2" wide, but use 1" of fabric. Similarly for
the top and bottom tubes, made last, with the ends open so
the elastic cord can be threaded through. They are 3/4" but
use 1.5" of fabric. All this so the cut edges of the fabric
won't unravel on you at some possibly embarrassing moment when
privacy is important....
The height is critical; the width is not since it only
means the curtain is more or less "full" when closed.
The sliding door curtain could be slightly less wide than
the opposite window, but again, width isn't critical.
It is easier to make more panels the same size, so
the rectangular panels for the rear side windows are made 2"
wider so there are six panels of the same dimensions.
Here are the fabric dimensions to cut your panels:
side window/door: each two panels, 20" high x 32" wide
rear side windows: each one panel 20" high x 32" wide
each one panel 20" high x 30" top, 36" bottom
(one "right" and one "left"!)
rear door: two panels, 24-1/2" high, 41" top, 47" bottom
(one "right" and one "left")
windshield: each one panel, 28" high, 42" top, 48" bottom
(one "right" and one "left")
front windows: two panels, 22-1/2" high, 52" top, 72" bottom
(one "right" and one "left")
Again, each panel has 1/2" hems on each side, using 1" of
fabric, and .75" tubes on top and bottom, using 1.5" of fabric.
See the photo for details.
Now you need to lay these out to determine how much fabric to
purchase. (As I recall, 45" and 54" are common fabric widths.)
Don't forget the "left" and "right" so your curtains all have
the fabric with the same side inside.
Here's what you need:
6: 20x32
2: 20x36
2: 24-1/2x47
2: 28x48
2: 22-1/2x72
Again, remember that the width dimensions are not critical,
affecting the "fullness" of the curtain when closed. I don't have
any notes about how wide or how much of the fabric we purchased.
The fabric (my wife reminds me) was cotton broadcloth.
You can purchase elastic cording (black or white) at fabric stores
that is about 1/8" diameter. I just saw Bungee (or Bungee-like)
cording at McGuckin's Hardware in a similar size that I would check
out carefully since it would probably be stronger and last longer.
The elastic cording starts to sag after a few years, but you can
stretch it tighter or replace it. My curtains, made in '94 need
new cording for the side and rear curtains which I leave in place,
but the front window-windshield curtains, which I only put up when
needed, are still fine.
At each end of the cording make a small loop using some fine copper
wire used as a twist-em. Loop the wire twice (720 degrees) around the
cord, then twist. (Today I would check for some crimpable "C" wire
gizmos or something crushable like some electrical connectors.)
Each side and rear curtain (two panels) has one cord at the top and
one at the bottom with loops at each end. The front doors and
windshield have a single cord at the top and single cord at the
bottom starting with a loop at the back of the door (B pillar),
then a loop for the A pillar, another loop for the other A pillar,
then a final loop at the end for the other B pillar.
That is, the front curtains are a connected set of the two
front doors and two windshield panels. I only put them up when needed.
When you take them down you have to keep the loops of the elastic
from disappearing down the tubes; I use a bead key chain to keep
all the loops together.
Mount "hooks" made of chain links to hold the curtain panels via
the elastic cording. 16 gauge chain of the type where every link
is a figure-8 (twisted 90 degrees at the waist) is what you want.
#6 x 1/2" sheetmetal screws hold them. If you drill the right
size hole, you can crank down the screw and they will never come
loose. See the pix for an idea of where the hooks are mounted;
exact details are left as an exercise for the reader. ;-)
You can bend the hooks closed for the side and rear curtains if
you are going to leave them up all the time like I do and
leave them slightly open for the front door/windshield panels
so you can hook and unhook them as needed. The side, rear-side
and rear door curtains have middle hooks at top and bottom, too;
see the pictures.
The side and rear window panels have snaps near the top and bottom to
hold them tightly open or joined together when closed. The windshield
panels have similar snaps to keep them closed. That is, each pair
of panels has snaps M-F and M-F (top and bottom) so each panel can
be snapped to itself back out of the way, or snapped to the other
panel. If you want, you could add snaps to connect the front door
and windshield panels across the A pillar, etc, etc.
http://jones.colorado.edu/jones/VWcurtains:
BottomCPillar.jpg
CenterTopWindshield.jpg
Chain16gauge.jpg
CurtainTube.jpg
FrontCurtains.jpg
FrontSideDoor.jpg
LowerWindshield.jpg
RearSideDoor.jpg
RearSideWindow.jpg
TopCPillar.jpg
Richard A Jones
Boulder, Colorado
<jones@colorado.edu>
10 January 2007
