Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2007 13:26:16 -0800
Reply-To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: radiator bleeding valve
In-Reply-To: <vanagon%2007011203403666@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
That's a great idea Bill!
Thanks a lot.
On 1/12/07, Bill Glenn <idahobill@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Bleeding the air at the top of the radiator is easily done by loosening
> the
> bleeder bolt. The problem occurs when the air has been purged, followed
> by
> coolant coming out at the bleeder bolt, but you're not there to see it
> because you're at the back of the van replacing the coolant in the
> expansion tank as it's taken up by the water pump to fill the system. The
> result is coolant down the front of the van and on the ground. Caught in
> time, outdoors in summer, the clean-up is easily done with water from the
> hose (though I don't want excess toxic coolant hosed into the gutter).
> Outdoors in winter where I live, spraying water is a poor option, because
> it will ice the driveway for weeks. Indoors in the garage, I don't want
> coolant pouring on the floor and splashing around either, because a water
> clean-up is not an option (too much stuff around).
>
> This has been my solution: Use an 8mm bolt with the same thread as the
> bleeder bolt on the radiator, 25mm long having a full thread, (normally a
> 13mm head if of euro origin). Place the bolt in a drill press vice, head
> up, making sure the bolt is perfectly plumb when clamped in the vice.
> Center punch the exact center of the head, then drill a 5/32" hole down
> through the head, continuing all the way through the length of the bolt.
> Remove the bolt from the drill press vice, and place it in the machinist's
> vice, gripping it by the head. Using a hacksaw, cut the head off the bolt
> and discard the head. Lightly dress the cut end of the bolt shank with a
> file to de-burr it. Slip a 30" piece of very flexible 5/16" i.d. rubber
> hose over half the length of the bolt threads, starting from the cut end.
> (the flexible rubber is easier to work with when screwing the bolt into
> the
> radiator than vinyl hose would be). A clamp on the hose is not needed.
>
> When replacing the coolant in the Vanagon, temporarily remove the radiator
> bleed bolt, and replace it with above bolt/rubber hose. Screw it in just
> until the rubber hose makes contact with the radiator. Let the hose
> dangle
> into a clean five gallon bucket or drain pan. Fill the expansion tank
> with
> coolant and start the engine. Now just stand at the back of the van and
> pour more coolant into the expansion tank as needed, increasing the revs
> on
> the motor to force the coolant through the system and up into the
> radiator. No need to concern yourself about coolant coming out the
> radiator, because it's being fully captured in the bucket. Allowing
> coolant to exit the top of the radiator in this manner for several minutes
> seems to purge much more air than when the bleeder bolt is closed down at
> the first sign of coolant coming out. When done, the captured coolant in
> the bucket is poured back into one of the original coolant bottles and
> carried in the van and used to top off the expansion and overflow tanks if
> needed. After one trip of moderate distance, the remainder of the air is
> usually purged, and the coolant level stable, only needing to be topped
> off
> to the desired level. The bolt/hose combination, which cost less than a
> dollar and fifteen minutes of my time, is rolled up and stored until next
> time.
>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
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