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Date:         Thu, 25 Jan 2007 11:27:53 -0500
Reply-To:     Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject:      Re: Head sealants??
Comments: To: Elliot Kane <e_madmax_k25@YAHOO.COM>

Understand one thing! before i did wasser, i was working on Motorcycle engines, japs mostly. OEM (FROM THE DEALER) gasket are more than ok, nothing like the aftermarket poor quality one! (brrrr, i'm freezing my butt up here in the shop, -23C outside, dificult to even type...), that said, Wasser are old, have dammage/coroded mating surface and the Reinz gasket kit is "average"... so that is why i use other product to help the gasket.

Everyone here (including Dennis :-)))) will agree that "the right stuff" is the best thing for the rubber head gasket (and many other location), how much you put there depend on how damage are the surfaces, including the water jacket side! i don't suggest any JB's anywhere and there is no need for that anyway, but, if you are reusing the same heads, they must have some pitting? if yes, clean them deeply (head outter mating surface) http://www.benplace.com/heads/head_outer.jpg now, when doing the heads prep, fill every cavity with "the right stuff" by hand, with your fingers, before that, i also clean and open the aluminum pores (and let it dry) with WOW ABC 1037 Rust & lime removal for toilet drain, yea, toilet drain... or Dupond 225S (this is also how non bean blasted case come so shinny). Those stuff will remove any dirts deep into those cavity (pitting)... this is not a must at all, just so it by hand.

The Permatex #3H Aviation FORM-A-GASKET on the compression sealing ring is mostly to hold this one there will putting the head in place (on that subject i won't argue with anyone here :-)))), as for the bottom black o-ring, it all depend on the surface of the case, if it's perfect, you may use the o-ring only, that is your choice or i agree with Dennis, i just did some test with Hylomar and that product seem a very good choice also, i still think that the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket maker #51813 (formerly Locktite 518) is a good choice, why, let me tell you why: You guys think that Vanagon leaks, let me tell you that Bus's leak oil like crasy! i have tried everything on the pushrod tubes o-ring (different design then the wasser) and ONLY the 518 is sealing them for as long as 2 years! It doesn't affect the O-ring at all, the 518 is even softer then the cooked o-ring after 2 years. http://www.benplace.com/bjp/100_0042_78c.jpg http://www.benplace.com/bjp/100_0043_78c.jpg http://www.benplace.com/bjp/100_0044_78c.jpg

I have tried many dfferent product there, including the right stuff, the problem with the right stuff is that it's a mess the days you need to remove those tubes! the 518 will stay soft enough that it's a breeze to remover the tubes. The Vanagon pushrods tubes don't really need sealant, unless the case mating surface is pitted, i put some to again, hold the tubes in place when i put the heads on! So i choose to add some "Safety" on that lower black O-ring, i just checked my 2.5 years invoices, i/we have open and reseal (for different reasons) over 55 wasser! None came back!

As for the Dirko, this product as a tendency to become to hard, when i see head sealed with that, i can peal the excess near the gasket easily.

The grease on the upper 0-ring is to make sure the heads slide over that o-ring without crushing it or pussing it out of the sleeve groove wile putting the head. If you use old sleeve and heads, make a test fit before, old sleeve and head show ofter some corosion in that area.

I also slightly over torque the heads to 40ft/lb instead of the 37 suggested. also, as opposed to the Bentley or any other book, when torqing the head, when it's in place, the pushrods tube side will still push the head out, be carefull here, the upper compression ring could fall (if you are working on a engine bench and on the vertical). so when you are sure that this ring is well in place, push hard on the head to compress the tubes, start with the 2 center nuts by hand, pushrods side nuts/caps bolt (and don't forget to put some right stuff under those) http://www.benplace.com/bjp_head2/100_0039.jpg , tight them enough so the heads touch the outter black head gasket, after, go with the x-cross tighten sequence like the Bentley tell you, just a few turns on each bolt, take your time.

This page as also many pictures that could help: http://www.benplace.com/vanagon_engine2.htm

Good luck friend! Ben


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