Date:         Thu, 8 Feb 2007 20:04:36 -0800
Reply-To:     Tom Sinclair <neeemo@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Sinclair <neeemo@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: central door lock issues
Comments: To: Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM
In-Reply-To:  <c95.93fbb5f.32fd3fb2@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Give it up. I installed one of these:
http://tinyurl.com/7awgb in a 91 SW and it works
great.  You have to run a couple extra wires to the
front door units and reverse the polarity of the wires
on the rear and side units, but it works great and the
rear and side units even bolt into the existing holes
for the actuators.  The fronts need to be lowered 1/2"
but it's straightforward. It's also a good time for an
alarm/keyless entry system.

Tom

--- David Clarkson <Dvdclarksn@AOL.COM> wrote:

> Greetings list. I am trying to refurbish my central
> door lock system and
> recently extracted the driver's side actuator that
> was locked up. I found a used
> actuator that ohms out and want to locate the fuse
> that Bently mentions (20
> amp). Is this an inline fuse? I feel certain that
> before I start extensive
> testing for broken wires that I might verify that
> this fuse is working as the
> faulty actuator that was locked up probably caused
> it to blow. One other issue
> I  am battling is the mechanism that links the
> actuator to the tab on the
> latch  that activates the locks. The white plastic
> piece seems to get knocked off
> or  won't stay attached after re-installing the
> actuator and linkage rods.
> Anyone  have any tips or tricks for attaching and
> keeping this attached once the
> actuator is installed? Thanks in advance.
>
> David Clarkson
> 90 Westy (235k)
>


http://www.minkcreeksyncros.com/



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