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Date:         Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:04:25 -0600
Reply-To:     Jerry <jbvelo@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jerry <jbvelo@BELLSOUTH.NET>
Subject:      Re: My 2 cents on head leaks and rubber studs
Comments: To: Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <45D3647F.3010205@videotron.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I don't know about y'all but with all the discussion about sealing head gaskets and such, I am definitely using "the Right Stuff" if and when I ever do my head gaskets. Love to All

Jerry 88 GL BUS-ter

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Ben Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:35 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: My 2 cents on head leaks and rubber studs

Ok, my bad.... the product IS called "The Right Stuff", ha ha ha http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_make rs/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm

i hope the link work

Among mechanics, it's call "The SAVIOR", i think i was invented by Chrysler for an engine problem/leak, then bought by Permatex. It was somewhat and still is a bit expensive and not always easy to find...

Ben

gary hradek wrote:

>Ben, > Was clear from your post what not to use just not >clear what works best for the sealer. >I like your idea of using a Dupont Aluminum cleaner in >2 parts. Just did not catch the name of the sealer. > thanks gary > > > >>let it soak for 1 night, > >--- Ben <huotb@videotron.ca> wrote: > > > >>Gary, i think i was clear on my post (read bellow) >>as to which stuff to >>use on the heads outer soft gasket, unless Busdepot >>as it's own gasket >>kit with some "The Right Stuff" in it, don't use the >>included one! >> >>Again, i agree on one thing, the wasser is easy to >>remove and put back >>(1hour to 2 hours), most of the external stuff (FI, >>ALT... coolant line) >>are very easy to work on, BUT, it stop there, on >>most modern inline 4 >>cylinders car it's an easy job to change an head >>gasket with the engine >>still in the car, and it is not on a wasser, of >>course, up here, i have >>to deal with very rusted EX to head bolts. Now, the >>"split case" system >>is another story, on a Honda or on most VW car, you >>can change the main >>bearing with the engine still in the car, not the >>case (hi hi) with a >>split case, as for the heads VS sleeve, putting the >>old pistons/sleeve >>back in is an art form! on any 4cyl engine, putting >>back the heads is a >>joke... yes, the wasser is easy to remove, good >>thing because it's a >>must when you need a lot of internal work... yea >>yea, some will tell me >>that changing the pistons is more easy than on a 4 >>inline... well, 1 >>good point for the wasser.. >> >>"""The real drawback is that you tend to have a >>higher frequency of >>engine repair than you really want and it detracts >>from your camping >>time.""" >> >>Talking about me? if yes, you are so right... but >>for that i need a >>van... and my van is now in 1000... pieces, well, at >>least, it's now >>red... so red that i'm blinded by it! :-))))) after >>all, i should have >>chosen a more... humble color, men, it's look like a >>Fire fighter toy >>truck ha ha ha ha... Pics later tonight. it took me >>3 days to paint >>everything...oufff... but i took time to send >>between the 2th and 3th >>coat....and for fun, i put a fourth coat.. >> >>Regards, Ben >>ps.: i won't get into that coolant color thread... >>tired of it. i have >>my own recipe: >>Water, oil, windshield washer and a bit of WD40.... >>in case some of you >>may tried that, it's a JOKE! >>I simply use Prestone! now yellow those days >> >>gary hradek wrote: >> >> >> >>>On the gasket sealer >>> If I buy the kit from busdepot can I use the >>> >>> >>sealer >> >> >>>that is included or should I buy a better sealer? >>> As for the engine design, >>>poor it may be but it is less expensive to work on >>>than most engines and requires an average skill >>> >>> >>level >> >> >>>provide you are aware of the problems of >>> >>> >>installation. >> >> >>>The real drawback is that you tend to have a higher >>>frequency of engine repair than you really want and >>> >>> >>it >> >> >>>detracts from your camping time. >>> One last thing which can never be overstated >>>AVOID THE GREEN STUFF, unless of course it is ST >>> >>> >>Pat's >> >> >>>day and then just avoid pouring it into the coolant >>>tank. Gary >>>--- Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>"""I think that the rubber seal is the real >>>> >>>> >>problem. >> >> >>>>It is just the worst gasket system ever >>>>designed."""" >>>> >>>>I FULLY agree, i have said here ""numerous time"" >>>>that this engine design >>>>SU**. We all now it's a POOR evolution the the >>>>Beetle engine!!! >>>> >>>>As for that "Stretching stud story", i don't agree >>>>that they strech to a >>>>point of NO return, some are... softer but can >>>> >>>> >>still >> >> >>>>be use, if a stud as >>>>been stretch to a point that even screwed all the >>>>way the bolt doesn't touch >>>>the head, put that engine in the garbage, an >>>>over-stretch stud is a sign. >>>>When i torque the heads (and we are now in 2007... >>>>not in 1990/engine are >>>>way older), i use judgement! i don't only look at >>>>that gauge on the TW. >>>> >>>>The Bentley is somewhat wrong! instead of doing 2 >>>>rounds of "torque" >>>>sequence, do 4! if not 5 of the X patern AND BEGIN >>>>of the pushrods side!!!!, >>>>start by hand and feel the bolt. Also, i just read >>>>on another thread that >>>>someone was using the Grey Permatex on the outside >>>>HG, sorry bro but WRONG, >>>>not in 2007, the gray is barely good for the valve >>>>cover.... IT DOESN'T hold >>>>against coolant, If someone is using other stuff >>>>than "The Right Stuff", you >>>>don't know what you are doing... Dirko is the >>>>worse... especially for colder >>>>weather.... >>>> >>>>I don't know why those "Sealing" heads threads >>>> >>>> >>keep >> >> >>>>comming back... it's olf >>>>stuff. >>>> >>>>2 month ago i had to re-seal an 2.1L that was done >>>>10 month before, it was >>>>sealed with the 2 tube included in the Reinz >>>> >>>> >>gasket >> >> >>>>kit, the owner was there >>>>at the time of sealing... the mechanic never did a >>>>wasser. The sealant had >>>>become DRY, cooked and it was detach from the head >>>>on 2 spot. The head were >>>>pitted, i use a Dupont Aluminum cleaner in 2 >>>> >>>> >>parts, >> >> >>>>let it soak for 1 night, >>>>believe me, there is no dirt in those pitting spot >>>>the next day, i don't put >>>>JB there! i filled the pitting with the right >>>> >>>> >>suff, >> >> >>>>put a final coat and >>>>thats it... if you don't believe me, do a test >>>>yourself, take an old head, >>>>put the sealer on the pitting, drip the head in a >>>>bucket of coolant, let is >>>>soak for a month... and try to pull the sealant >>>>out... you'l see. now, do >>>>the same with some grey Permatex, it will be detch >>>> >>>> >>>>from the heads in few >>> >>> >>>>days... yea, i did the test 3 years ago so others >>>>can benefit. >>>> >>>>Bahhh... you guys do what ever you want :-) >>>>http://www.benplace.com/amc_head/amc9.jpg >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>__________________________________________________________________________ __________ >> >> >>>Have a burning question? >>>Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from >>> >>> >>real people who know. >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> > > > > >___________________________________________________________________________ _________ >Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate >in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A. >http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367 > > > >


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