Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2007 14:35:27 -0500
Reply-To: Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: My 2 cents on head leaks and rubber studs
In-Reply-To: <510926.53895.qm@web38910.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Ok, my bad.... the product IS called "The Right Stuff", ha ha ha
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm
i hope the link work
Among mechanics, it's call "The SAVIOR", i think i was invented by
Chrysler for an engine problem/leak, then bought by Permatex. It was
somewhat and still is a bit expensive and not always easy to find...
Ben
gary hradek wrote:
>Ben,
> Was clear from your post what not to use just not
>clear what works best for the sealer.
>I like your idea of using a Dupont Aluminum cleaner in
>2 parts. Just did not catch the name of the sealer.
> thanks gary
>
> > >>let it soak for 1 night,
>
>--- Ben <huotb@videotron.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>>Gary, i think i was clear on my post (read bellow)
>>as to which stuff to
>>use on the heads outer soft gasket, unless Busdepot
>>as it's own gasket
>>kit with some "The Right Stuff" in it, don't use the
>>included one!
>>
>>Again, i agree on one thing, the wasser is easy to
>>remove and put back
>>(1hour to 2 hours), most of the external stuff (FI,
>>ALT... coolant line)
>>are very easy to work on, BUT, it stop there, on
>>most modern inline 4
>>cylinders car it's an easy job to change an head
>>gasket with the engine
>>still in the car, and it is not on a wasser, of
>>course, up here, i have
>>to deal with very rusted EX to head bolts. Now, the
>>"split case" system
>>is another story, on a Honda or on most VW car, you
>>can change the main
>>bearing with the engine still in the car, not the
>>case (hi hi) with a
>>split case, as for the heads VS sleeve, putting the
>>old pistons/sleeve
>>back in is an art form! on any 4cyl engine, putting
>>back the heads is a
>>joke... yes, the wasser is easy to remove, good
>>thing because it's a
>>must when you need a lot of internal work... yea
>>yea, some will tell me
>>that changing the pistons is more easy than on a 4
>>inline... well, 1
>>good point for the wasser..
>>
>>"""The real drawback is that you tend to have a
>>higher frequency of
>>engine repair than you really want and it detracts
>>from your camping
>>time."""
>>
>>Talking about me? if yes, you are so right... but
>>for that i need a
>>van... and my van is now in 1000... pieces, well, at
>>least, it's now
>>red... so red that i'm blinded by it! :-))))) after
>>all, i should have
>>chosen a more... humble color, men, it's look like a
>>Fire fighter toy
>>truck ha ha ha ha... Pics later tonight. it took me
>>3 days to paint
>>everything...oufff... but i took time to send
>>between the 2th and 3th
>>coat....and for fun, i put a fourth coat..
>>
>>Regards, Ben
>>ps.: i won't get into that coolant color thread...
>>tired of it. i have
>>my own recipe:
>>Water, oil, windshield washer and a bit of WD40....
>>in case some of you
>>may tried that, it's a JOKE!
>>I simply use Prestone! now yellow those days
>>
>>gary hradek wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>On the gasket sealer
>>> If I buy the kit from busdepot can I use the
>>>
>>>
>>sealer
>>
>>
>>>that is included or should I buy a better sealer?
>>> As for the engine design,
>>>poor it may be but it is less expensive to work on
>>>than most engines and requires an average skill
>>>
>>>
>>level
>>
>>
>>>provide you are aware of the problems of
>>>
>>>
>>installation.
>>
>>
>>>The real drawback is that you tend to have a higher
>>>frequency of engine repair than you really want and
>>>
>>>
>>it
>>
>>
>>>detracts from your camping time.
>>> One last thing which can never be overstated
>>>AVOID THE GREEN STUFF, unless of course it is ST
>>>
>>>
>>Pat's
>>
>>
>>>day and then just avoid pouring it into the coolant
>>>tank. Gary
>>>--- Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>"""I think that the rubber seal is the real
>>>>
>>>>
>>problem.
>>
>>
>>>>It is just the worst gasket system ever
>>>>designed.""""
>>>>
>>>>I FULLY agree, i have said here ""numerous time""
>>>>that this engine design
>>>>SU**. We all now it's a POOR evolution the the
>>>>Beetle engine!!!
>>>>
>>>>As for that "Stretching stud story", i don't agree
>>>>that they strech to a
>>>>point of NO return, some are... softer but can
>>>>
>>>>
>>still
>>
>>
>>>>be use, if a stud as
>>>>been stretch to a point that even screwed all the
>>>>way the bolt doesn't touch
>>>>the head, put that engine in the garbage, an
>>>>over-stretch stud is a sign.
>>>>When i torque the heads (and we are now in 2007...
>>>>not in 1990/engine are
>>>>way older), i use judgement! i don't only look at
>>>>that gauge on the TW.
>>>>
>>>>The Bentley is somewhat wrong! instead of doing 2
>>>>rounds of "torque"
>>>>sequence, do 4! if not 5 of the X patern AND BEGIN
>>>>of the pushrods side!!!!,
>>>>start by hand and feel the bolt. Also, i just read
>>>>on another thread that
>>>>someone was using the Grey Permatex on the outside
>>>>HG, sorry bro but WRONG,
>>>>not in 2007, the gray is barely good for the valve
>>>>cover.... IT DOESN'T hold
>>>>against coolant, If someone is using other stuff
>>>>than "The Right Stuff", you
>>>>don't know what you are doing... Dirko is the
>>>>worse... especially for colder
>>>>weather....
>>>>
>>>>I don't know why those "Sealing" heads threads
>>>>
>>>>
>>keep
>>
>>
>>>>comming back... it's olf
>>>>stuff.
>>>>
>>>>2 month ago i had to re-seal an 2.1L that was done
>>>>10 month before, it was
>>>>sealed with the 2 tube included in the Reinz
>>>>
>>>>
>>gasket
>>
>>
>>>>kit, the owner was there
>>>>at the time of sealing... the mechanic never did a
>>>>wasser. The sealant had
>>>>become DRY, cooked and it was detach from the head
>>>>on 2 spot. The head were
>>>>pitted, i use a Dupont Aluminum cleaner in 2
>>>>
>>>>
>>parts,
>>
>>
>>>>let it soak for 1 night,
>>>>believe me, there is no dirt in those pitting spot
>>>>the next day, i don't put
>>>>JB there! i filled the pitting with the right
>>>>
>>>>
>>suff,
>>
>>
>>>>put a final coat and
>>>>thats it... if you don't believe me, do a test
>>>>yourself, take an old head,
>>>>put the sealer on the pitting, drip the head in a
>>>>bucket of coolant, let is
>>>>soak for a month... and try to pull the sealant
>>>>out... you'l see. now, do
>>>>the same with some grey Permatex, it will be detch
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>from the heads in few
>>>
>>>
>>>>days... yea, i did the test 3 years ago so others
>>>>can benefit.
>>>>
>>>>Bahhh... you guys do what ever you want :-)
>>>>http://www.benplace.com/amc_head/amc9.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>____________________________________________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>>Have a burning question?
>>>Go to www.Answers.yahoo.com and get answers from
>>>
>>>
>>real people who know.
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________________________
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