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Date:         Fri, 23 Feb 2007 19:01:04 -0500
Reply-To:     Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mike Collum <collum@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: Bleeding the clutch
In-Reply-To:  <45DF7E97.4090508@verizon.net>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Chris,

Personally I use a Motive power bleeder, model 0100. It really makes the job easy and certainly prevents introducing air into the system.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

Others have made inexpensive power bleeders using common garden sprayers. Here are some examples:

http://bworks.net/vw/bleeder/info.htm

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

http://scirocco.dhs.org/cheapassron/CheapassPressureBleeder/index.html

Since you don't have a power bleeder and want to bleed the clutch right away, you can do it the old fashioned way. With a Syncro, you can probably reach the bleed screw from the engine compartment.

You'll need a 7 mm. box wrench, penetrating oil, some plastic tubing to slip over the bleed screw and a small pop bottle. Soak the bleed screw, scrape the rust aside, and put the box wrench on. Wiggle it all the way on, then open the screw, maybe a 1/4 turn. Force the plastic tubing over the bleed screw, (keep the wrench in place), and put the other end deep into the pop bottle. You'll want to have some brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 (DOT 4 is better)) in the bottle so that air isn't sucked back into the line. You might have to wire the pop bottle up to something. Go up front and pump away slowly and smoothly.

This is a one person operation, BTW. Having the bleed screw only slightly open also helps stop the system from sucking air back in, since that makes it easier to pull in fresh fluid from the reservoir.

Keep the brake fluid in the reservoir between the min and max marks. You'll get about 3/4 bottle (400cc) of brown fluid before it starts clearing. It won't get crystal clear unless you push another bottle of fluid through. Of course, tighten the bleed screw before removing the tubing when you're through. Pressure purging certainly works better, but this will do the job.

You want to completely purge the system of old fluid as it attracts moisture and can rust out the lines. The recommended period is to completely change the brake/clutch fluid every two years.

I hope this helps,

Mike

Christopher Gronski wrote: >> Hi All, >> >> I just recently posted a question on how to bleed coolant, now I'd >> also like to know the best way to bleed the clutch hydraulic system on >> a 1986 2.1L syncro with rear locker. >> >> Chris >> >


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