Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2007 20:40:06 -0500
Reply-To: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: 1991 Vanagon intermittent no start
In-Reply-To: <002201c761ba$09cd9db0$6501a8c0@Karen>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
The ignition switch is a frequent source of the problem you are
describing as others have reported. But it is not always the culprit.
My 85 Weekender sits outside as living proof. It has a new ignition
switch and still won't start. I have determined from some files found
in searching the archives and saving good posts that my problem is
somewhere in the wiring up front, but it has been too cold and I have
had other issues with the van to resolve due to emissions testing which
was slated for NLT yesterday (back to that later).
Clean all the grounds, especially the ones to the starter and the
solenoid and the large wire that grounds the transmission to the frame -
both connections.
The solenoid has two spades or male connectors. One has a wire on it
the other doesn't. If you put a female connector in the end of a 2 or
so foot piece of about 12 gauge wire you can connect this to that spare
spade on the solenoid. With the key in the on position, not the crank
position, you can then touch the other end of this wire to the large
bolt on the alternator. This might make the van start. I started mine
this way for several weeks as all the wiring in the back is good. Later
I put in a push button switch that I ran over to by the slider. I use
this to close the circuit made by my wire to the solenoid, the other end
of which is now permanently attached by a round connector to that large
bolt on the alternator. It doesn't look like I am hot wiring the car
when I start it now.
I hope to track down the gremlin beginning this weekend when we are
supposed to have 7 days in the 50's and above.
I have attached a zip file with lots of info on no start issues from
some of the lists best diagnosticians. For much of this you need a
simple multimeter to check voltage. You can find adequate one (the type
I use) for around $10 or less at FLAPS. It isn't that hard to learn to
use it and do some measurements. This can save you lots of $$. [The
zip file will be stripped from the list post, only going directly to the
original poster.]
Back to my story. So I don't fix the starter all the way so I can focus
on fixing the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor, testing other parts of
the FI system, swapping AFM's, etc. And the van is running much better,
getting close to normal mileage, and I had a 1 in 4 chance or so of
passing the first time. I wait in line about 20 minutes, finally get
asked for the emissions notice, credit card, etc., and the lady tells me
to pull up to a certain line when the cars in front of me have moved on
(in about 10 more minutes), put it in neutral and turn it off. So, I
then tell here about the ignition switch issue and my "alternative"
starting wiring.
They decide they won't test the van at all in that condition for fear
they would do something that would make it worse while it was on the
dyno. Right. But no problem, they give me a piece of paper stating
why they won't test it. I wait and pass through the line in about 10 or
15 minutes and go to the MVA rep who politely gives me a 4 month
extension to take care of this problem. 4 months. If I was a gross
polluter, which I was when there was a rusted out spot in the 2-4
exhaust header end at the collector. Since I fixed that I probably am
not, but 4 months to foul the air for an ignition switch.
Anyway, I hope to fix the ignition issue and finish trouble shooting the
Fuel Injection system during this warm spell, which hopefully is the
beginning of spring here in Baltimore.
Sam
--
Sam Walters
Baltimore, MD