Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 16:58:17 -0500
Reply-To: Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: Big end rod clearance 2.1 WBX
This guy know what his doing... that my boy!!!!
USE HEAT to remove pin (small torch work fine but you need to bent it to
reach the underside of the piston), it will come out easily when hot, after
pistons are out, you can use a wiremesh dremel to smooth the pin hole entry
where the clip is, the pin will slide just with a light push.
Bob is a rebuilder, so don't listen to him as for the botom end... he wan't
to do your engine, he he he, seriously, the filler gauge give you an idea on
the rods condition but like Bob stated, not much on the ovality of those.
On very high millage engine, you should open the case, but i understand that
you don't want to do so, it could imply a lot more money, so my trick is the
following but remember that it take some experience to do so, as i have seen
oval big end rod i have now a good feel when i shake the rods arounds, up,
down, left right, it is normal for the rod to move a bit left and right, but
the movement must stay parallel to the crank, if the rod feel loose and you
have doubt about this one "sluggish" movement, send the core to Bob, ha ha
ha....
Lately i have open 6 core, only one was showing ovality/wear (and believe
me, those rod were loose (it remind me that i have a video of this one!!!),
the cam was pitted like hell and the small end bushing were craked), so you
have 1/6 chance of having some... he he he. Seriously (sorry, i'm having
problem with this word today), even Bob will tell you that the Wasser botom
end is solid, but you are taking a chance not openning the core on very high
millage van. On the other end i completely understand why, my Tornado Red
engine was fully fully rebuilt, you don't want to see the bill!!!
The good news, here in the shop i mostly do top-end with a 100% success..
for now :-))), but i check those engine (inside) carefully before doing so
(especially the 2.0L Air Cool who very often have loose gear on cam). The
other customers have 2 choice, have the bottom end rebuilt or buy a good use
core (i have a lot).
My conclusion, most Wasser and Type2 are good for 1 top-end before an overall.
Ben
""""A little heat also helps loosen the varnish and lets the pin slide threw
the piston.
The major reason that the pin has become a press fit is that the wrist pin
clip raises a ridge of aluminum next to the clips on the piston
This becomes a real problem when you reinstall the pin into the piston. The
pin needs to float in the piston in order to get it back into the rod
bushing. You can not use a hammer to reinstall the pin. I have seen this
done and it is not pretty. I hone the piston pin hole in the piston to
remove the burr a scraper might help. One last note the piston needs to
float on the pin and the pin needs to float in the bushing. pulling the pin
threw the bushing can cause scratches and burrs.""""
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