Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 08:14:02 -0700
Reply-To: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: B-Quiet application in progress
In-Reply-To: <11dcddf80703140559t55615960td44c298ec90276a4@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Chris,
I have read this recently, whether is regard to
another post or possibly as a testimonial on the
B-Quiet web site. Very impressive, and much more
enterprising than my own attempt. I'm looking forward
to enjoying the benefits. Glad to know it works.
Stephen
--- Christopher Gronski <gronski@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Stephen,
>
> I've done my whole interior in B-Quiet, here is a
> post from late last
> year that may interest you:
>
> On 10/18/06, Dr. Chris <gronski@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Some pics posted under "1986 AdventureWesty Syncro
> GL" in the photos
> section of the spare list or hotlink to:
>
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/vanagon/photos/browse/f4cf
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Gerry,
>
> I have taken on a HUGE soundproofing project. When I
> had my van
> repainted white (from UPS brown) in the summer of
> 2005 I pulled out
> the entire interior (except the dash), stripped the
> factory paint off
> of the floor in the passenger compartment and
> cockpit, repainted it
> with grey POR-15, and laid down B-Quiet
> soundproofing on just about
> every hidden surface I could access.
>
> To minimize potential water seepage below the
> soundproofing I butted
> the sheets against each other and then put the
> second layer sheets in
> the same direction offset half a sheet from each
> other (again butted
> rather than overlapping). My girlfriend who was
> helping me suggested
> running the second layer in the opposite direction,
> but that actually
> creates an easier access point for water where the
> sheets cross,
> whereas butting the sheets and layering them with a
> half sheet offset
> creates about 6" overlap on each layer, making water
> getting bellow
> the soundproofing quite unlikely.
>
> I put three layers on the passenger compartment
> floor, sliding door,
> cockpit floor, cockpit roof, and rear hatch.
> Actually over half of the
> rear hatch is SIX layers as there was a substantial
> overlap in the
> middle and I did not bother cutting the sheets for
> height.
>
> I put one layer in the secret compartment under the
> front seats, and
> one on the inner circle of the seat swivel. I put
> two layers on most
> of the outer walls, another two on the inner walls,
> front doors,
> sliding door, and engine hump / behind rear seat. On
> the rear engine
> hump / behind the rear seat I also put down a full
> layer of B-Quiet
> L-Comp. My reasoning for the L-Comp was two fold:
>
> 1) The rear deck area is less likely to get water on
> it (unlike the
> floor of the cockpit and passenger compartment) so
> I'm less worried
> about the foam in the L-Comp trapping water.
>
> 2) The engine and rear wheels are located there and
> are a big source
> of noise so I'd like to get as much soundproofing as
> I can in there.
>
> For the exterior side walls, hatch, and slider, I
> stayed an inch or so
> away from any seam or support connection as I use
> Krown rustproofing
> every year and I wanted the Krown to easily be able
> to get to seams
> and welds. For the same reason I removed ALL
> fiberglass insulation and
> did not introduce any new insulation into the
> cavities.
>
> At the end of the day I used 600 sq ft of B-Quiet
> ultimate and 16sq ft
> of L-Comp.
>
> Now it may be the order I did the install with, but
> I would say
> subjectively my biggest wins were doing the rear
> deck, the rear hatch,
> and the cockpit roof. These areas are relatively
> easy to access. If I
> was trying to do things on the cheap, or without
> pulling much (or any)
> of the interior I would start there. If you're
> taking the quick and
> dirty approach you could probably leave the rear
> closet in place and
> in a westy the headliner above the cockpit is
> relatively
> straightforward to remove.
>
> After doing those quick wins I'd say the cockpit
> area around the
> driver, especially over the wheel wells. You could
> probably skip the
> paint strip and POR-15 steps if you stay off the
> floor.
>
> The reasoning behind soundproofing is to decrease
> the resonance
> created by metal vibration, and I'd say it works.
> All my doors close
> with a satisfying "thunk" now. But there are other
> sources of noise to
> consider chiefly tires and wind. I'll leave tires
> out of it but if you
> van was built prior to 1988 here is what GoWesty
> http://www.gowesty.com/flow-thru_ventilation.html
> had to say about quieting some of the wind noise:
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> START GO WESTY QUOTE
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Prior to 1988, if all windows were closed, the only
> way air could get
> out was through little exit vents located on the
> rear lower corner of
> the front door interior panels. These are the
> plastic vent assemblies
> with the little blue slide lever.
>
> These vents allowed air to exit the interior.
> Sliding the lever toward
> the front of the vehicle opens the vent, rearward
> closes it. On the
> leading edge of the doors, in the door jam, there
> are three oval holes
> that open into this hollow space of the door itself.
> As a Vanagon
> plows through the air, air flows around the vehicle
> creating
> low-pressure zones near the front door jam areas. VW
> engineers
> realized this and used this low pressure to suck air
> out of the
> interior of the vehicle. Air flows from the inside
> of the vehicle
> through the little vent at the rear end of the front
> doors, through
> the hollow door itself, into the door jam area, and
> out of the body
> gap between the front door and front quarter panel.
> Genius, you say.
> But what about the rear passengers, you say? And
> why, in 1988, did VW
> put a rubber seal at this body gap, thus blocking
> all airflow through
> it?
>
> The flow through ventilation scheme completely
> changed and improved in
> 1988. This change coincided with the introduction of
> the switch from
> chrome (or black) steel bumpers to the fiberglass
> "big bumpers" and
> the accompanying front spoiler. In 1988 the
> rear-most side windows
> have an added vent along the rear edge. It was
> necessary to shorten
> the glass in order to make room for this vent as the
> opening in the
> body stayed the same. These vents are air EXIT
> vents.
>
> Interestingly, the little grills on the front door
> panels remained,
> but if you remove them you will see the passageway
> behind them is
> sealed, and there is no blue slide lever. The seal
> at the door gap
> area was put there probably for reduced noise. I
> installed these seals
> on my 1987 Vanagon, and added the rear vents too. It
> actually lowered
> the wind noise a little, and the rear vents improved
> air flow inside
> the vehicle, especially for the rear passengers. And
> now I have the
> best of both worlds: improved flow-through
> ventilation and cool air
> from the dash vents! You can say you knew me when I
> was
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