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Date:         Thu, 8 Mar 2007 20:40:06 -0500
Reply-To:     Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Sam Walters <sam.cooks@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      Re: 1991 Vanagon intermittent no start
Comments: To: Karen <gritis@VERIZON.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <002201c761ba$09cd9db0$6501a8c0@Karen>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The ignition switch is a frequent source of the problem you are describing as others have reported. But it is not always the culprit.

My 85 Weekender sits outside as living proof. It has a new ignition switch and still won't start. I have determined from some files found in searching the archives and saving good posts that my problem is somewhere in the wiring up front, but it has been too cold and I have had other issues with the van to resolve due to emissions testing which was slated for NLT yesterday (back to that later).

Clean all the grounds, especially the ones to the starter and the solenoid and the large wire that grounds the transmission to the frame - both connections.

The solenoid has two spades or male connectors. One has a wire on it the other doesn't. If you put a female connector in the end of a 2 or so foot piece of about 12 gauge wire you can connect this to that spare spade on the solenoid. With the key in the on position, not the crank position, you can then touch the other end of this wire to the large bolt on the alternator. This might make the van start. I started mine this way for several weeks as all the wiring in the back is good. Later I put in a push button switch that I ran over to by the slider. I use this to close the circuit made by my wire to the solenoid, the other end of which is now permanently attached by a round connector to that large bolt on the alternator. It doesn't look like I am hot wiring the car when I start it now.

I hope to track down the gremlin beginning this weekend when we are supposed to have 7 days in the 50's and above.

I have attached a zip file with lots of info on no start issues from some of the lists best diagnosticians. For much of this you need a simple multimeter to check voltage. You can find adequate one (the type I use) for around $10 or less at FLAPS. It isn't that hard to learn to use it and do some measurements. This can save you lots of $$. [The zip file will be stripped from the list post, only going directly to the original poster.]

Back to my story. So I don't fix the starter all the way so I can focus on fixing the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor, testing other parts of the FI system, swapping AFM's, etc. And the van is running much better, getting close to normal mileage, and I had a 1 in 4 chance or so of passing the first time. I wait in line about 20 minutes, finally get asked for the emissions notice, credit card, etc., and the lady tells me to pull up to a certain line when the cars in front of me have moved on (in about 10 more minutes), put it in neutral and turn it off. So, I then tell here about the ignition switch issue and my "alternative" starting wiring.

They decide they won't test the van at all in that condition for fear they would do something that would make it worse while it was on the dyno. Right. But no problem, they give me a piece of paper stating why they won't test it. I wait and pass through the line in about 10 or 15 minutes and go to the MVA rep who politely gives me a 4 month extension to take care of this problem. 4 months. If I was a gross polluter, which I was when there was a rusted out spot in the 2-4 exhaust header end at the collector. Since I fixed that I probably am not, but 4 months to foul the air for an ignition switch.

Anyway, I hope to fix the ignition issue and finish trouble shooting the Fuel Injection system during this warm spell, which hopefully is the beginning of spring here in Baltimore.

Sam

-- Sam Walters

Baltimore, MD


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