Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 23:35:44 -0400
Reply-To: Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Benny boy <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject: Re: Could it by Blow by revisited and questions answered
Hi again Janet, nothing to worry, you live in San Diego, life is good :-)))
You have the "vanagon Syndrome partII", an un-sealed engine! The engine you
have (we like to call this one a waser... leaker) as one problem with time,
it's simply not sealing properly... or should i say it's mixing all
componants (oil, coolant, air, fuel), most of the customers who come to my
shop think their engine is shot, cooked and it's running like /$&"$&%!/$...
no, it's not cooked most of the time! Van get in the shop running poorly,
back windows full of oil stain, fuel not burning properly and so on but they
go back with the same SEALED engine!!!!!!!
I like to call that kind of job a "reseal" job, including all engine gasket,
some heads work (or to replace this one if to pitted, sadly) and some
pistons rings (or a complete new set of those), the cost of a job like that
can range from 1.5k to 3.5k (well, i know that in the US, the rate are way
more). Even if you leak from under and don't really burn oil (good new in a
way) you need a re-seal anyway, a 10$ Torque converter seal (if automatic)
or an 10$ oil tranny main seal (if 4 speed). Re-seal means a internal OR/AND
an external leak. That mean that you may have mix of everything.
Anyway, your engine is crying for help, but it's probably not dead at all.
It need care! Now, find a good and "crasy about VW" mechanic, i'm sure there
is a ton near SD. Just remember that you are lucky to see some sign, it's
time to do something.
Tech stuff about what i'm trying to say here:
-Some gasket and o-ring are failling: leak on the ground, including main
crankshaft seal and tranny seal, breather tower bottom o-ring, oil pressure
switch, bore hole plug.
-Internal sealing problem: pistons rings, head gasket, bottom lower and
upper cylinder O-ring. Bad intake tube sealing, air plenium leaking.
Sorry guys, but if her rear window is full oil stain, this come mainly from
the exhaust, the vortex bring the air full of oil back into the rear
window. It's a classic on air cooled engine.
The question you asked in your first post was: Do i need a new engine! well,
NO ONE here can tell you so, only when this one will be appart you will know
for sure, there is NO way to tell if a re-seal, a top end (pistons &
cylinder + new head) could be enough. A so call "leak down test" will tell
you nothing!!!!!!!!!! it will tell you which way your engine is leaking, but
either way, it need to be open, so who care!!!
Now, it imply 2 choice: you give a mechanic 7-10 hours (to open that engine)
to tell the real story, after that you make a choice, OR, you go ahead with
a new engine right away. It's like a bet, there is a risk!
NOW, my advice after 50+ engine reseal, take the risk of that 10 hours to
open your engine and see inside, at 90%, it will be a good bet!!!!
Understand one thing, one that 10 hours, only a few will be lost in
"Exploring" your sick engine, maybe 2, so not so bad after all. The other
7-8 hours on that 10 is needed anyway to remove everyting around the engine.
I hope this e-mail help you a bit!
Cheers, Ben
ps.: here is a look inside a job like that.
http://www.benplace.com/vanagon_engine1.htm
----------------------------------------------------------------------
You guys are great!!
I hope I provide enough info.
Yes it is oil and not soot that seems to sputter out and leave spots on the
back.
Yes, it leaks a little oil. I just have to watch it. I just looked today and
it has maybe a 5inch circle and it has been sitting for awhile.
I would say it burns oil in that I do have to watch it.
It also was leaking transmission fluid it seemed for awhile.
It also is leaking power steering fluid now and I was told that replacement
is really expensive. I had to have the belt replace that runs the power
steering.
I did have an issue when a belt broke and it overheated. But it had the
"blowby" problem before that, but not the other leaks. I figure that may
have effected the rubber in the car. I had to get all new water pipes.
I have a whole list actually, now the power locks are wigging out - the
passenger side doesn't open and the driver and side door open and close
until you shut the doors. It is rather comical - it goes like this - "quick
open the door" but it does stop. At first it didn't stop even if the doors
were closed and it would open and close, open and close .....
but i love her ...
Anyone have a good suggestion for a mechanic in San Diego, CA or near San Diego?
I go to Randy's Foreign who is great with VWs, but can be a little pricey.
Rich's in OB really likes the older cars that are not water cooled (or so I
hear!).
Janet
