Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 18:38:10 -0700
Reply-To: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Attn: Electrical Gurus! (I searched archives)
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0703301826060.25156@birdbird.example.com>
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Hi Matt.
Thanks for all that info.
I'm always impressed with how much the list knows and contributes!
I had heard of someone thinking of using a relay in the circuit a la
the headlight upgrade. But as you said it then becomes one relay per
speed. Kinda what I thought would happen.
I decided to go with stock. (See previous posts) In fact I just got
back from parts place with new switch. Picked up new wiper shaft
assembly, but am still waiting on bushings for brake pedal.
Brake pedal bushings??
I should know better. What started out as new fan, and wiper stuff has
become oh so much more!
This is getting to be like a kitchen/bath reno on a heritage home fer
cryin out loud!
Neil.
On 3/30/07, Matt Roberds <mattroberds@cox.net> wrote:
> > From: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> > Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 12:46:27 -0700
> >
> > As a last resort, I would install a toggle (SPDT?) and wire it for
> > an "off" "low" and "high" setting.
>
> A SPDT center-off toggle switch would probably do what you want.
>
> > What are the stock fan speed switches rated at? 12V DC, but how many
> > amps?
>
> Only VW knows for sure. One way to guess is to look at the size of the
> fuse for the fan motor circuit - buy a switch rated at least that much
> and you can't go too far wrong. If you have a multimeter with a 20 A
> range, you could set it up for that, turn the fan on "high", and pull
> out its fuse. Then put the meter probes in the fuse socket in place
> of the fuse (the fan should start up again) and see what it reads. Look
> for a switch with an equal or better rating.
>
> > Has anyone else found a better "mousetrap" in terms of a better
> > quality 3 spd. fan switch?
>
> One thing some American cars do is use a relay to connect the fan motor
> directly to the battery for "high". This means the switch doesn't have
> to carry the full current of the fan motor.
>
> If the problem with the VW switch is that it tends to burn out
> electrically, rather than break mechanically, you could extend this
> theory to having the switch run relays for _all_ speeds. You'd end up
> with a big wad of relays under the dash somewhere, but at least most of
> the electrical load would be off of the switch. If the switch tends
> to break mechanically, you're SOL.
>
> I have also seen ready-made remote switches that might work. These have
> a box with a relay that goes under the dash and does the heavy lifting.
> Then they have a tiny switch panel on the end of a thin wire - the panel
> looks nice and it's easier to hide the thin wire. Some of these are
> just one-circuit on-off but you might be able to get something fancier.
> Try a local car stereo/car alarm shop to see what they have.
>
> You might also look in a "generic" hot rod catalog like Summit or Jeg's.
> There might be a switch for street rodders that you could use.
>
> NAPA might be another source. They carry some "generic" electrical gear
> for big trucks and old vehicles that you might be able to use. It won't
> be cheap but it's usually pretty decent stuff.
>
> Matt Roberds
>
>
--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil