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Date:         Fri, 6 Apr 2007 16:13:12 -0700
Reply-To:     neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Fresh air control flap prototype PICS! (and long but possibly
              useful info)
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi all.

This is for air heads considering converting to water cooled and for those who want to make a control flap for fresh air intake to fresh air box.

The cables that control flaps for hot air out of the heater boxes are the same as the cables from levers to flaps on fresh air box. Yes they do have an extra covering, but that is easily removed.

I cut my now defunct heater cables as "long" as I could. They run over gas tank and are impossible to pull over gas tank so I cut them at either side of gas tank. Anyhow, I managed to harvest 4 slightly longer than stock fresh air/heat box cables. In my case, someone attempted to fix one of the cables to the fresh air box. It is useless. Since these long cables are now defunct, I will use one of them.

The control flap for fresh air intake is in the making:

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil/iWeb/Site%205/FreshAir_flap.html

It fits in fresh air ram and is hinged with a piano hinge. It will seal with neoprene foam. It appears to function and seals most of the opening. With flap positioned "shut", and fresh air box installed,lots of air drawne in new intakes. And this is with flap only covering 80% of the opening. The remainder of the opening, that has hard to cover curves, will be filled with spray foam of some kind. The good news is that I can route a "new" cable from old now defunct heat exchange control lever, to new flap (flap not installed, but almost ready). It is routed through stock hole left over from long cable. The end of the old cable has the correct pin to fit in lever that used to control flaps at rear, (as it was designed) and appears to be more than long enough to reach to control flap I'm making. There are no sharp turns, so cable won't likely bind. The end of cable to new flap will come from under and push up to seal or pull down. I will see what works best. Likely "push" up to seal as thats what incoming air will tend to make it do and "pull" is stronger on a cable so with air rushing at flap will driving, this will be an advantage.

Hope this all makes sense. And for those who are quick to point out that I've mangled perfectly good air cooled parts, they were of no use to me and my supplier was having trouble finding new cables. Maybe those are easy to get. Anyhow, the shortened cable fits the stock former heat control lever. So there! (insert humour here)

In short, if you're converting anyways, those old long cables going to the rear will yield 4 "new" cables for control levers to flaps. Good for replacement or spares.

-- Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil


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