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Date:         Thu, 12 Apr 2007 14:13:33 -0700
Reply-To:     neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Dometic fridge wiring question (diagram supplied)
Comments: To: Mark Drillock <mdrillock@cox.net>
In-Reply-To:  <461E9B50.6020903@cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi Mark.

On 4/12/07, Mark Drillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote: > If you use the switch method it is only a matter of time until tragedy > strikes and you kill the aux battery. I have learned this the hard way. > One way to reduce this danger is to rig a light on the stove panel that > is on whenever the fridge is running on 12 volts. I have done this and > it also lets you know without opening the fridge to check the switch > position.

I like that idea and:

> > Why not use the blue wire to trigger both relays and never have to worry?

But, the idea was to be able to leave fridge on aux battery during short shopping stop (or w.h.y.) IF I needed to run on DC. i.e. I was out of LP or was running on DC while driving.

I may just set it up so both relays trigger via blue wire way as that's similar to stock. I mean hey; if I'm taking that long shopping AND running out ot LP, I deserve to have rotten food right?

;^)

So....

This is all looking like a moderated waste of time on my part (except that I'm learning good stuff from listers) because most of the time I run the fridge on LP.

> > The stock aux battery relay on models so equipped is a metal cased 40 > amp type that is screwed to the body under the front seat with ~10 gauge > wire between the batteries.

Hmmmm.... good to know. I had read on a Westy site to use a 30 Amp HD relay.

As it stands I'll use the 30 amp. If I start blowing the 30 amp fuse at aux battery I'll know that I might need a larger relay/fuse.

Neil.

> > Mark > > neil wrote: > > Hi all. > > > > In learning how to hook up accessories to aux. battery, I now > > understand (thanks Mark) that the two wires going to fridge (relay > > trigger wire - larger white. Heater element supply wire - #12 red) > > can't simply be connected to aux. batt. Even when fridge NOT set to > > 12V fridge relay is still drawing power from aux. battery. > > > > In order to allow option to operate fridge on 12V SHORT term, I'm > > thinking of altering wiring as such: > > > > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil/iWeb/Site%205/Refer_wiring_mod.html > > > > Has anyone else done this successfully? > > > > Is this idea/schematic correct or just entirely gerfunktabooten? (bad) > > > > One drawback is that new switch could be left "on" by accident. I > > imagine a relay could be used in place of switch. One that would be > > triggered by the 12v switch on fridge. I dunno.... > > > > Thanks for any help, and hopefully my diagram will help others out. > > > > Neil. > > > > > > -- > > Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia. > > > > http://web.mac.com/tubaneil > > >

-- Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.

http://web.mac.com/tubaneil


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