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Date:         Sat, 14 Apr 2007 18:11:19 -0400
Reply-To:     Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ben <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA>
Subject:      Re: 86 Westy w/ Overheating issue. ANY other possibilities?
Comments: To: jobe pilgrim <jobepilgrim@yahoo.com>
In-Reply-To:  <20070414191238.11700.qmail@web51805.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Hi again, i i'm replying to the list also as it's always good for others.

First, there is something wrong with the coolant flow, at 3/4 on the gauge, both line should be pretty hot, of course the return is cooler but still pretty warm to hot, radiator SHOULD BE PRETTY HOT.

At first, I would suspect a bad T-housing or the thermostat and even maybe the radiator, i feel that in some strange ways, the bypass line is still circulating (can i say that word in English?)hot coolant engine to engine when the thermostat is open.

So my conclusion is simple, something could be wrong at the distribution unit, that plastic part on the right side, where the right head front "S" coolant line hook up! or the T-Hoosing is bad!

To test that, i would clamp the flex bypass line http://www.benplace.com/cooling_system_hoses.htm (letter L) when the engine reach normal temp, i never had to do so but was ready to try that in extrem cases, i'm thinking hard now!!! Well, the more i think, that could only tell you that the Thermostat housing is BAD. when the thermostat is fully open and try to close the hot coolant from the bypass, the hot flow could still mix with the cooler one.

If a coolant pressure test turn out ok, your system is not leaking, so coolant IS simply to hot. What create that hoverheating at idle is a bad circulation, crack heads will mostly overheat at normal driving speed. Many Vans are running with a bad cap and they still run ok. Unless you have a VERY bad head gasket seal, to check that, you neeed to install your coolant pressure tester, run the engine, wait, and look at the tester if it stays atound 15-18psi.

About bleeding, STOP worring about that... this is NOT your problem Jobe! Vanagon are easy to bleed when everything is well installed. Lately, i don't even raise the van.

I'm having so much less problem with the older 1,9L cooling system!!!

I'm sorry if my post doesn't help you much, for now, this is all i can think of.

Keep us up to date. Ben

------------------------------------------------------------ The previous 2.1l has a 6 inch hole in the top of it and was appearently running great when it blew. (Wrong gear up a very long, steep hill.) It was replaced by an AVP rebuilt. One of the first things I did was pressure test the system which tested OK. Perhaps time to retest pressure and compression?

All cooling system and most other parts are new.

Temp seems to get to normal running temp and then slowly climb.

Oil temp has not been checked, and I have been suspicious about a wire to oil temp sensor. I have not used a temp gun. Though I am fairly positive that the engine is getting too hot... Seems to boil over past about 3/4 on the gage when I stop the process. (Should I be concerned about a head gasket there?)

Radiator gets fairly hot. Hose to radiator gets very hot, but return seems abnormally cold.

I have been bleeding it with the back end high in the air using the bleeder on the radiator, as the bleeder on the T-stat housing has yet to produce any fluid. I have also been raising the front end and bleeding it that way to try to get any excess air out. The times when I think that the problem may be solved, I will bleed it several times... first back, then front, then back, etc. until I am fully discouraged.

On the topic of bleeding... If there is enough fluid, do I need to open expansion tank cap?

Anyways, thanks for your response. I'm looking forward to the day that I can drive this van for more than 10 min.

Jobe Pilgrim


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