REFRENCING PPG #3: This may not be applicable to our Vanagons, but on some 'Merican cars "That Little Hole" is supposed to allow any fluid seeps that escapes the final seal on the master cylinder to drip out rather than to run into the booster.

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-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Troy Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:30 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: master cylinder (p-mail)

Hi Rob:

Thanks for the reply. My problem sounds more like your second description. I did go in and adjust the brakes. I basically adjusted them until the wheel stop moving and then backed off until they were free, or just barely scraping. Certainly not 10 turn though-- maybe three or four. I was never able to get the brake drum off, but the star wheel did move freely. I am not aware of a star lock, so I was able to hear an audible click. A standard brake adjusting tool was too wide, so I ended up grinding the heck out of a standard one until it would fit. A standard screwdriver worked well in one direction but not the other.

Anyway, I start to get brake pressure about half way, perhaps a little bit beyond that. It certainly is not what I would consider to be a real firm pedal though. I doubt I could lock up the wheels.

Here's another little twist to this whole equation: On the bottom of my master cylinder flange (where it attaches to the brake booster) was a perfectly round hole (looked like it was suppose be there but wasn't) and air was being sucked into or out of the brake booster, so, basically a leak. I took some JB Weld and sealed that, and all has been fine, but there still may be a small leak there. For the life of me, I still can't figure out why that hole was there-- it was so perfectly shaped and everything, but it was confirmed by several people it was not supposed to be there.

That's one more reason I want to change out the cylinder. Lastly, when I apply the brakes I am feeling of fluctuation in the pedal pressure. That is to say more friction and less friction. When I was adjusting the brakes, this is pretty much how things were acting as well. In other words, the brakes would hit in one spot, and then free up. I seriously doubt the pads are the same shape (arch) as the inside of that drum. It's been wearing for quite some time, so I don't understand this or how to fix it, short of replacing the pads and brake drums. If I could get the damn drums off it would help, but can't budge those suckers.

Troy

> I'm hesitant to get into this one.... > > A master cyl problem- pedal goes ALL THE WAY to the floor, NO brakes > at all, with the next pump you have normal brakes. Does this sometimes. > > Adjustment problem- pedal goes half way to the floor & brakes work, > another quick pump and the pedal feels 'normal' and the brakes STILL work. > Does this all the time. > > Adjust the rear brakes. Figure out which way to turn the adjusting > star, figure out how to release the adjust star lock (usually push a > lever out of the way). Jack up the rear, and start turning the star > "in" until you just can't turn the wheel by hand, then back the star off 10 "clicks" > (you'll have to guess how much a click is as they don't make that > noise with the release lever pushed out of the way). Repeat the > process to the other wheel. > Now go check the brakes again, does the pedal feel 'normal' now? > > > Rob