Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 18:14:25 -0500
Reply-To: Allen Hill <route66rider@KNOLOGY.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Allen Hill <route66rider@KNOLOGY.NET>
Subject: Re: master cylinder (p-mail)
In-Reply-To: <000d01c77f9c$cd1416a0$0201a8c0@dellumudu3qsdq>
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REFRENCING PPG #3: This may not be applicable to our Vanagons, but on some
'Merican cars "That Little Hole" is supposed to allow any fluid seeps that
escapes the final seal on the master cylinder to drip out rather than to run
into the booster.
Route 66 Rider!
Ramon Hill
Live Long and Be Free
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Troy
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 3:30 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: master cylinder (p-mail)
Hi Rob:
Thanks for the reply. My problem sounds more like your second description. I
did go in and adjust the brakes. I basically adjusted them until the wheel
stop moving and then backed off until they were free, or just barely
scraping. Certainly not 10 turn though-- maybe three or four. I was never
able to get the brake drum off, but the star wheel did move freely. I am not
aware of a star lock, so I was able to hear an audible click. A standard
brake adjusting tool was too wide, so I ended up grinding the heck out of a
standard one until it would fit. A standard screwdriver worked well in one
direction but not the other.
Anyway, I start to get brake pressure about half way, perhaps a little bit
beyond that. It certainly is not what I would consider to be a real firm
pedal though. I doubt I could lock up the wheels.
Here's another little twist to this whole equation: On the bottom of my
master cylinder flange (where it attaches to the brake booster) was a
perfectly round hole (looked like it was suppose be there but wasn't) and
air was being sucked into or out of the brake booster, so, basically a leak.
I took some JB Weld and sealed that, and all has been fine, but there still
may be a small leak there. For the life of me, I still can't figure out why
that hole was there-- it was so perfectly shaped and everything, but it was
confirmed by several people it was not supposed to be there.
That's one more reason I want to change out the cylinder. Lastly, when I
apply the brakes I am feeling of fluctuation in the pedal pressure. That is
to say more friction and less friction. When I was adjusting the brakes,
this is pretty much how things were acting as well. In other words, the
brakes would hit in one spot, and then free up. I seriously doubt the pads
are the same shape (arch) as the inside of that drum. It's been wearing for
quite some time, so I don't understand this or how to fix it, short of
replacing the pads and brake drums. If I could get the damn drums off it
would help, but can't budge those suckers.
Troy
> I'm hesitant to get into this one....
>
> A master cyl problem- pedal goes ALL THE WAY to the floor, NO brakes
> at all, with the next pump you have normal brakes. Does this sometimes.
>
> Adjustment problem- pedal goes half way to the floor & brakes work,
> another quick pump and the pedal feels 'normal' and the brakes STILL work.
> Does this all the time.
>
> Adjust the rear brakes. Figure out which way to turn the adjusting
> star, figure out how to release the adjust star lock (usually push a
> lever out of the way). Jack up the rear, and start turning the star
> "in" until you just can't turn the wheel by hand, then back the star off
10 "clicks"
> (you'll have to guess how much a click is as they don't make that
> noise with the release lever pushed out of the way). Repeat the
> process to the other wheel.
> Now go check the brakes again, does the pedal feel 'normal' now?
>
>
> Rob
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