Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 17:25:09 -0700
Reply-To: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Lower bleeder screw question (searched archives)
In-Reply-To: <46225FF7.90304@qwest.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Hi Keith.
Thanks for pointers. Although I was slowly pushing pedal and holding
it to floor with piece of 2x4 between it and seat, I see your point.
Open bleeder, push pedal down once, close bleeder, repeat. I was
opening, pumping (slowly) several times then closing.
Part of the problem could be that I gave up on oneway valve hose ("one
man" type. It kept popping off) and went with plain no-valve hose at
3 of the wheels, I was possibly drawing air in. Kinda doubt it, but
that may have been the case. Also I couldn't see what was coming out
of hose so not certain all air was out.
Anyhow...
Am in throws of getting parts together for power bleeder though I may
just take van down to brake place and get them to do it. As ridiculous
as it sounds, there's no one close by who I trust to follow direction
accurately, so I keep trying this myself.
Thanks again,
Neil.
On 4/15/07, Keith Hughes <keithahughes@qwest.net> wrote:
> >Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 08:21:11 -0400
> >From: Mike <mbucchino@CHARTER.NET>
> >Subject: Re: Lower bleeder screw question (searched archives)
> >
> >Neil,
> >
> ><snip> I bit the bullet and
> >bought a Motive unit for european cars, and I was so impressed, that I'll
> >never bleed the pump way again! Superior, fast and a good, solid pedal the
> >first time. And no need to enlist help, grease bleed screws, or go round
> >and round and round, trying to get a better pedal. Invest in one, if you
> >plan to do all the work on all your cars, like I do. They're not very
> >expensive, and you can avoid taking the car to a shop and paying them to use
> >thier pressure bleeder on your car. It'll pay for itself on the first use.
> >
> >HTH,
> >
> >Mike B
> >
> Clearly a pressure bleeder is the way to go if you must do the job by
> yourself. But, the only reason you "go round and round and round,
> trying to get a better pedal" is because you're making *the* most common
> mistake with brake bleeding...PUMPING the pedal. Pumping does two
> things, pressurize the system, and foam the break fluid. It's the
> foaming part that screws up the whole process and keeps you from
> efficiently removing the air. The quick, easy, foolproof method is:
>
> 1. Fill the MC with fluid.
> 2. Start at the bleeder farthest from the MC, i.e. right rear.
> 3. Open the bleeder first.
> 4. *Slowly* (allows you to see what's going on in step 7) depress the
> brake pedal all the way to the floor and HOLD.
> 5. Close the bleeder.
> 6. Release the brake pedal.
> 7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 until you get clear, clean, fluid for two
> or three iterations.
> 8. Repeat the process for LR, RF, then LF wheels. Make sure you do
> step 1 a lot.
>
> I've done hundreds of vehicles this way, and you never have to do it
> twice unless the MC has a problem (or you forget step one).
>
> Keith Hughes
> '86 Westy Tiico (Marvin)
>
|