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Date:         Mon, 23 Apr 2007 16:53:01 +0000
Reply-To:     rubatoguy@COMCAST.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Todd Last <rubatoguy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: another speedometer cable question
Comments: To: Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET>

My experience has been that speedo needle problems can be caused by not pushing the cable far enough into the housing. Usually I push the cable in, drive a few miles, then double check to make sure that the cable is all the way home.

If any of the plastic tabs break, or get loose, you can expect the speedo needle to start sticking. I've had this happen at least twice. The only cure is a new cable.

Resist the temptation to spray WD-40 into the speedo if you think the mechanism is sticking. While this may work short-term, WD-40 attracts dust, so over time, this will make things much worse. (I once heard a clock repair person state that WD-40 keeps him in business (from the customers spraying the gears in their clocks with WD-40)

One thing that I do which I have no idea if it helps or not, is to spray motorcycle cable lube down the speedo cable.

Oh, one last thing, if your speedo needle is sticking, sometimes a thump on the instrument pod will set it free.

Todd '88 Westy

-------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET> > Hi folks: > > I have been reading the archives for about the past 45 minutes. I see some > problems similar to my own, but nothing that exactly matches. I have an 89 > Westy, which has the one-piece speedometer cable. Originally, the speedometer > needle jumped quite a bit, and then it would stabilized at around 50 or so. I > decided to go ahead and replace the speedometer cable based on what I read in > the archives. When I hooked up the new one, things were pretty smooth up to > about 55, and then there is a lot of noise, and the needle fluctuates (bounces) > about 3 mph above and below the real/true reading. At about 65 its a little > better, but I don't drive at those speeds or can't consistently-- at least not > with the stock engine! > > There was mention of one person having problems with the tabs on the instrument > cluster being broken, which then allow the whole cluster to vibrate and that > cause the problem in his case, but the tabs on my instrument cluster are in good > shape. However, the plastic where the four screws of the speedometer go into the > instrument cluster are broken on three out of the four corners on mine. I took > some hot glue and glued the speedometer back onto the instrument cluster at the > center points. It seems tight to me, although at high speeds perhaps it is > vibrating. I'm kind of reluctant to take anything like JB Weld, as if I ever > need to replace the speedometer I'll never get it off there. > > I went out this evening and checked the cable all the way from the back of the > speedometer down to the wheel, and I just don't see any kinks or restrictions. I > actually loosened the one cable clamp, but it doesn't really clamp on to the > cable very tight anyway. > > I'm wondering if it's possible for the hole on the back of the speedometer > itself to become worn (elongated), allowing the cable to slip slightly? Based > on what I've read, some type of vibration seems more likely. Does anyone have > any suggestions on how to more firmly attach a speedometer to an instrument > cluster that has broken mounting points/corners? As I said, I would like to be > able to be able to remove the speedometer for repair if needed, so nothing > permanent here. Instrument clusters in good shape are pretty hard to come by, > so repair is preferable. > > Any other ideas of what might be causing the problem? I have to drive about 400 > miles this coming weekend, and not looking forward to the rattle of this thing. > It's amazing how annoying these little things can get after hundreds miles;) > > Troy


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