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Date:         Mon, 23 Apr 2007 09:59:26 -0700
Reply-To:     Old Volks Home <oldvolkshome@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Old Volks Home <oldvolkshome@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Oil Pressure Switch R&R
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>,
          Jerry Baker <jbvelo@bellsouth.net>, David Hally <davegh@pacbell.net>,
          Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com>
Comments: cc: Vanagon Yahoo List <Vanagon@yahoogroups.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY125-F2236D933379FBC760307E3A0550@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

OK, a report to those who directly replied to me regarding the oil pressure switch R&R. All of your replies were informative and absorbed.

Solution over the weekend: 1. Remove the Alternator/WP Belt 2. Purchase Craftsman 15/16" 12 Point (not 6 Point) Deep Socket. This is 2.5" long as opposed to others that are 2.75 to 3" long. 3. Purchase Craftsman 3/8" Drive Breaker Bar. 4. Could not remove the Water Pump Pulley because there is no GOOD way to lock the pulley without damaging the Water Pump IMHO. 5. Slip the Socket onto the Breaker Bar and using "universal" position nature of the Breaker Bar, snake it down between the two pulleys and onto the oil switch. It's still pretty tight as the heat shield is RIGHT THERE, but the 1/4" difference in socket length made all the difference. I picked a 12 point socket because I knew I would have to periodically re-set the position using a breaker bar whether loosening or tightening. There is no room for a ratchet unless the heat shield (1.9 style) is unbolted enough to move it back or remove completely. 6. Broke the switch loose and was able hand remove the switch. In addition, the threaded bushing the switch attaches to came out together with the switch. 7. Installation is the reverse of the above.

Note: I inserted the threaded bushing into a vise to break loose and reinstall the new switch, got a new 16mm ID crush washer for that from the dealer (open on Sat!) and installed them as a unit, just as it came out. Inspected the old switch and saw a slight crack in the plastic (probably from age) next to the metal crimping of the switch. For all I know, it was original.

No More Leaking! :-)

Thanks again to all for their tips. -- Jim Thompson 84 GL 1.9 "Gloria" 84 Westfalia 2.1 "Ole Putt" 73 K Ghia Coupe "Denise" 72 411 Station Wagon "Pug" oldvolkshome@gmail.com http://www.oldvolkshome.com *********************************** On 4/20/07, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > > Remove the water pump pulley and use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet. > > Dennis > > > >From: Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM> > >Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM > >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > >Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Switch R&R > >Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 06:21:43 EDT > > > >In a message dated 19/04/2007 2:55:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > >LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > > > >I can usually perform most any repair on the venerable 1.9 or 2.1engine. > >But here's one where I've become stumped. The "high side" oil pressure > >switch located just below the crank pulley and next to the oil filter > >mount > >has developed a crack in the plastic and is producing a consistent drip, > >thus oiling up the backside of "Ole Putt". How does one access this > >little > >jewel and replace it with the engine in the vehicle? A 24mm deep socket > >would be perfect except the heat shield prevents the attachment of a > >ratchet > >to unscrew it off (and of course screw the new one on). Right now it > >looks > >like the cat and muffler would have to be removed and the heat shield > >removed to get the extra room, but if anyone else has done this another > >way, > >I'm all ears. > > > >Because the 2.1 is installed in my 84 Westy, there is no "Dynamic Oil > >Pressure Buzzer System", so the switch just acts as a plug. I would > >probably replace it with an appropriate length 10 x 1.0 threaded bolt > >sealed > >with teflon tape. > > > > > > > > > > > >Jim, you should be able to use your 24mm socket with a ratchet or > breaker > >bar. The trick is to bend the muffler heat shield a bit to get the > >clearance. > > But, I see you have this 2.1 in a '84 unless you installed the heat > >shield > >from the 2.1 Van. The heat shields are different so some modification > of > >that ' 84's heat shield will be necessary. > > > >Cheers, > > > >Frank Condelli > >Almonte, Ontario, Canada > >'87 Westy, '90 Carat, '87 Wolfsburg (Forsale) & Lionel Trains > (_Collection > >for sale_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) ) > >_Frank Condelli & Associates_ ( > http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html) > >- Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley > >_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_ > >(http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/stebro.htm) > >_BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper > >camping event, Almonte, ON, June 07 ~ 10, 2007


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