Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 15:14:33 -0700
Reply-To: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Body filler onto primer/rust treatment paint?
In-Reply-To: <BAY129-F238DDE40A1CEC9F879AB1AA9390@phx.gbl>
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Yes that does help!
I'm glad I used the fiberglass filler as it was applied to bare metal
and had to bond to exsisting filler too. And yes I primered over
filler. That much I knew!
I now have some plastic filler. There are a couple **small** spots
(almost pin hole size) to fill and one or two edges to feather in.
Too bad I can't apply filler to areas I treated with Tremclad rust
primer paint. (seam area, fender well) Oh well, it won't look good,
but rust will be slowed down.
I got myself a Haynes body work book, so that should splain' a lot.
Thanks!
Neil.
On 5/11/07, Jason Willenbrock <pooncerelli@hotmail.com> wrote:
> pros will tell you to use plastic body filler only on properly prepped bare
> metal. now, with that said, it doesn't mean that is how it is always done.
> if you use plastic filler over primer you will run the risk of it dropping
> out at a later date. In my limited experience doing body work, i have only
> used plastic body filler on bare metal, then primered. Once i level my
> primer, any low spots, pin holes etc..., i fill with polyester body filler.
> Now, polyster body filler can be applied over primer, but only very thin
> layers to level out slight imperfections, not dents. Polyster body filler
> sands extremley easy, which is why you only use a small amount. then shoot
> on some more primer and level. There is a general rule of thumb out there,
> and that is the harder it is to sand out, the more dureabilatey you can
> expect. For example, fiberglass body filler is far superior to plastic. It
> is more difficult to sand then plastic but will last much longer and is
> resistant to moisture unlike plastic filler which will absorb moisture.
> also you must primer over filler before top coat. if you top coat directly
> over filler, it will bleed through and you will not be happy. i have also
> heard that the solvents in paint can attack filler or vise versa, i have had
> no experience there as i always primer over filler, seal, then top coat.
> hope this helps
> good luck
> jason
> 87 syncro westy
> so many roads to ease my soul...
>
>
>
> >From: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> >Reply-To: neil <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: Body filler onto primer/rust treatment paint?
> >Date: Fri, 11 May 2007 09:36:53 -0700
> >
> >Hi all.
> >
> >Am finishing up some body work. Repaired cracked body filler/surface
> >rust on slider door and seam rust work on PS rear fender area. Even
> >pounded out dents at fender well..... interesting!
> >
> >Will body filler (i.e. Bondo White/lightening) adhere properly to
> >primer or rust treatment paint such as Tremclad?
> >
> >I don't mind leaving as is and just top coating with colour, but it
> >wouldn't take much more work to "button it up" with some filler.
> >
> >Are there different types (easier or harder to sand) of body filler?
> >
> >The stuff I used ("Glass lite". I think was the name) set up quite
> >hard. It is a "short strand fiberglass reinforced filler". In
> >hindsight, I don't think it's correct for the application I used it
> >for.
> >
> >Sorry for such elemantary questions. I will get my Haynes body work book
> >soon!
> >
> >Neil.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
> >
> >http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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--
Neil Nicholson. 1981 Air Cooled Westfalia.
http://web.mac.com/tubaneil
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