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Date:         Tue, 8 May 2007 00:17:48 -0700
Reply-To:     Thomas Pfrommer <pfrommer@PHAS.UBC.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Thomas Pfrommer <pfrommer@PHAS.UBC.CA>
Subject:      Re: oil pressure
Comments: To: Dennis <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <001201c7911a$171e7e00$0201a8c0@MASTERPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Dennis wrote: > Unless the relief spring and piston is extremely loaded with crud, it does > not fail. The 2,600 rpm vs. 2,000 rpm buzzer issue is strictly an > electrical issue with the dynamic oil pressure board and I have seen a > number that operate at that RPM. My guess is that there was a revision at > some point to quiet the noisy buzzers. > I agree. Is there am easy way to change this or how are these revision usually made? Well I am getting ahead of myself anyway ... first the manual gauge .... > A healthy engine should be able to maintain ~ 10psi/1,000 rpm. If you > can’t hold .9 bar at 2,000 or 2,600 rpm, something is wrong. Since you are > having trouble once warm you have to consider viscosity, temperature, a > clogged inlet screen or excessive clearances somewhere. You need the test > the oil pressure with an oil pressure gauge. You need to check the relief > valve with a cold engine Hm how can I check whether its working or not? the piston is clean and the spring is new.

> ant them map oil pressure a various oil > temperatures and engine speeds. > Yes the pressure gauge is what i will do next .... temperature gauge will also be implemented. I keep you posted with the results ... > If the oil pup has a gasket between the pump body and cover, and that > gasket is not so thin as to rip by merely looking at it, you have the > wrong gasket there. > Hm it seems that I accidentally changed the two gaskets, I cannot see the one between pump and case, but between cover and pump, a ~1mm thick gasket is visible. is there an easy way to get to change this? I.e. letting the engine to the ground onto some lumber, taking the exhaust off (is there enough space or do I have to get the rear tires a bit higher?) , taking the engine bracket off and then taking the cover off? Or is the coolant pipe in the way? Meaning I have to undo the pulley as well? Well This will be the next step after the manual oil pressure I guess ... > What level is the oil filled to? Any chance it is too high. At or above > the top mark on the dip stick is too much. It is at the high side ... I will let a bit out but my guess is perhaps 200ml too much if that. Could this cause the low oil pressure?

> Is water flowing through the > oil cooler? The oil cooler is new, How could I check? Just with the hands if it is running to feel the flow? > What is the coolant and oil temps. > Coolant temps is just above center of gauge. Don't have an oil temp gauge yet. > Without using an oil > pressure gauge and doing some real diagnostic testing, you only grasping > at straws and hoping for a miracle. > Yes I agree thats why the pressure gauge is the next step. I still hope that i do not have to do a major change .... Thanks a lot for your thoughts and help! Cheers Thomas > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Thomas Pfrommer > Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 1:52 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: oil pressure > > David Kao wrote: > >> --- Thomas Pfrommer <pfrommer@phas.ubc.ca> wrote: >> >> >> >>> Actually i do not get a blinking, meaning even with a hot engine and >>> idling now warning occurs. With a cold engine the same, and also when i >>> rev above 2600 rpms everything is fine. BUT when the engine is hot and >>> > I > >>> rev above 2600 at some point, not right away the buzzer+warning light >>> gets on. A small tip on the accelerator to bring the engine at about >>> 2800 stops the buzzer/warning light. Going then back to idle no >>> blinking occurs. I believe that there is certainly a low oil pressure >>> problem, as at 2600 or 2800 the pressure is not supposed to be around >>> 0.9bar but rather 2 to 3 bar. I am certainly above 0.3bar while idling. >>> The 0.9bar switch is new. What is strange is that the change from the >>> 0.3bar switch to the 0.9bar switch occurs at 2600rpm and not at 2000. I >>> tested it by disconnecting the cable to the 0.9bar switch. >>> Thanks >>> Thomas >>> >>> >> Thomas: >> >> So it is unrelated to overheating. Have you checked your oil pressure >> > relieve valve? > >> If the sping is stuck and compressed you will get constant low oil >> > pressure. > >> > I changes the spring last week as I also thought this is the problem. > However I am not sure if it is stuck ... how can i tell? the piston came > out nicely when I changed it and I cleaned everything and put it back > together, with the groove being farther away from the spring .... I hope > that was the right direction ... the bentley for the 2.1l 87 does not > show which site of the piston faces upward, but for the air-cooled it is > shown nicely and i assumed it will be the same way. that means the > spring connects to the outer ring of the piston and it is hollow at the > spring site. The piston is flat facing the engine ... makes sens to me... > > aaarrrgggghhhhhh I am running out of ideas what it could be WITHOUT > talking the monster out/apart again NNNOOOOOOO!!! > > Thanks > Thomas > >> Overheating and rod bearing clearance problem will cause blinking >> > warning light. > >> David >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > __________________________________________________________________________ > __________ > >> The fish are biting. >> Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing. >> http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php >> >>


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