Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2007, week 5)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Mon, 28 May 2007 23:15:53 -0500
Reply-To:     Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: Where to get metal edging strip?
Comments: To: PB <pbrattan@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <699b6e3f0705252224n2ac0088dq3efc894a0da838e6@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

[Metal edging for floor plywood at sliding door opening]

On Fri, 25 May 2007, PB wrote: > I actually found the L-shaped aluminum, and I think it will work just > fine. I'm going to make it slightly longer than the original strip, > which will involve some cutting and filing. I'll also have to drill > holes and find some "unobtrusive" screws, if there is such a thing.

My best guess would be countersink head wood screws, preferably in aluminum, brass, or stainless steel. Aluminum and stainless may be harder to find; brass should be available at your local hardware store or big-box home center. The two concerns are 1) rain/mud/gunk getting tracked in the doorway and corroding the screws and 2) galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. 1 is probably the biggie. 2 is best solved by aluminum screws, but they aren't very strong and are hard to find. Brass is probably the best combination of liking aluminum and being easy to find.

You can get an official drill bit to make the countersink, or you can fake it with a big regular drill bit. If the screw head (not the shank) is 1/4" (6.3 mm) diameter, try something like a 1/2" (12-13 mm) drill bit, and just "kiss" it to the metal - don't go all the way through. Then use a smaller bit, that will clear the shank of the screw, to drill the rest of the way through the metal. With any type of bit, have the aluminum sitting on a block of scrap wood so it won't dimple/bend underneath the drill bit. Since you had to cut it to length, you should probably have a scrap piece of aluminum that you can practice on.

You probably know this already, but also drill the plywood subfloor and/or the new wood flooring you installed with a pilot hole for the shank of the wood screw. Sometimes the screw package will have the drill bit size on it, or there are plenty of charts online. Holding up drill bits to the screw until you find one that is visibly smaller than the small diameter of the threads also works just fine. :)

Matt Roberds


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.