Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (June 2007, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Mon, 11 Jun 2007 09:00:51 -0700
Reply-To:     Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Mark Drillock <drillock@EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject:      Re: coolant leak after long idle
Comments: To: Malcolm Stebbins <mwstebbins@YAHOO.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <673226.14842.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Nice old post with good info. The behavior of the thermostat as regards coolant pressure in the radiator is well known and not a matter of belief or faith. The thermostat is on the radiator return line, where that line rejoins the engine. The water pump can thus push coolant to the radiator even if the thermostat is closed, as long as the radiator bleed screw is open. Reving the engine slightly helps overcome the fact that the radiator top is higher than the pump. The coolant will "spill over the top" inside the radiator and fill the return pipe as well since coolant is heavier than air. The air will rise to the higher point, namely the bleed hole, and after coolant mostly fills the pipes and radiator it will start to spill out of the radiator bleed hole even with a closed thermostat.

I agree that the system can be bled just fine without raising the front. It can even be done with the rear raised and that is how I mostly do it. I don't raise the rear just for the bleeding but many times I already have the rear raised for some repair or replacement that requires bleeding to complete.

Mark

Malcolm Stebbins wrote:

> --- David Etter <detter@MAIL.AURACOM.COM> wrote: > > >>I'm sure others will jump in with a more detailed check list, > > > As Dave suggests, here is my post on the topic. I differ from what Dave said in that I do believe > that the engine/coolant must be hot/warm for the thermostat to open to pressurize the radiator to > force the air out. > > The actual bleeding part is near the bottom of this post: > > http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?A2=ind0203C&L=vanagon&P=R28247 m2cw > > > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.