Date:         Thu, 14 Jun 2007 09:38:58 -0700
Reply-To:     Matthias Kuster <matthiaskuster@VERIZON.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matthias Kuster <matthiaskuster@VERIZON.NET>
Subject:      wheel bearings questions
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

I have just replaced all four wheel bearing, dirty, dirty job, on my
84 Wolfy. The part I am confused with are the front bearings.
Apparently that bolt needs to be tightened quite sternly, then backed
off until the washer can be moved by hand. Now I did that, but did
NOT tighten it a buttload, then backed it off, but just tightened it
until there was resistance in turning the wheel, then backed it off.
Then went on the road and backing out of the garage I notice right
away that I had issues with varying brake pedal distance until they
(brakes) grip and pedal holds steady. I would have to pump one full
travel length each time I switched from forward to reverse. I had the
same problem on my 84 Westy on which I also replaced all brake
components about 2 months ago. Could not figure it out. Brought it to
a shop and spent $500 bones to have it corrected.
But I am seeing now that it is indeed because the front wheel bearing
are not tightened enough, and the brake rotor will move the calipers
when reversing, full tilt steering etc. I installed new bearings both
times. Now, on the Wolfy yesterday evening, I tightened the front
peened nut more on both sides and went out-better but not perfect.
Then incrementally tightened both more. Everytime I went for a drive
it seemed like the bearings had adjusted or worn in (500 ft drives
everytime) better, thus I could tighten the peened nut even further.
i got to the point where I tightened them with a breaker bar
(guessing about 60 ft/lbs), then backed them off a little. The
problem of my varying brake pedal did not go away 100%, but was
vastly improved. I finally stripped the threads on the driver's side
spindle and today will have to replace it (have another used one,
since I found the one I installed at the junkyard with new ball
joints). Still stinks.
Now: since I put on new rotors, should I be tolerant of a little bit
of this varying brake pedal distance, maybe it just needs to adjust
to the pads, say worn in? My pads have only about 5k miles on them.
Should I still replace them? The whole brake system was super tight,
I just decide to get new rotors since the old ones were way too thin.
Is there a secret to innstalling front wheel bearings. AFAIK the
races were in all the way. Do they have to be tightened a buttload,
then backed off. Bentey says strongly tighten them, but with a
breaker bar?
Just wondering what others think since this is the second time I am
having this issue and last time it cost me 2 weeks of redoing,
rebleeding the brakes and finally paying the mechanic to do it right.
All because the front bearings were not tight...all this time, when
wheels were off the ground by wiggling I could not detect a problem,
except the first time, when it was really bad. What's the secret
people? I won't tell NASA!!! Even though somebody should...three main
computers out on the ISS and the space shuttle with a damaged heat
shield, been there, done that with my Vanagons. Believe!

Blessings

Matthias