Date:         Sun, 17 Jun 2007 05:26:21 -0500
Reply-To:     Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Subject:      It's alive, but it gives bad head!  (Fixing head leak on '87 2.1L)
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

Hello all!

I just posted the story of helping a friend get his newly-acquired '87
Westy (2.1L, 150K miles) back on the road.  In brief, it runs, but
requires about a gallon (4 L) of coolant at the end of a 10-minute
drive, mostly due to a big leak from the right head.

I know that the wasserboxers are known for head leaks, but this van has
some extenuating circumstances - we're not 100% sure, for instance, that
the right head wasn't loosened up on purpose by a previous "mechanic"
who seemed to be more interested in ripping off the previous owner.
When we got home, he crawled underneath with a strong light and reported
that there was a visible gap between the cylinders and head on the right
side head that was not evident on the left side head.

He got the van for a good enough price that he doesn't mind spending
some money on it.  If the transmission and bottom end of the engine are
reasonably OK, putting on some new heads isn't out of the question.
Right now the goal is to get it more reasonably drivable so he can
finish evaluating the rest of the van.  Having to add a quart (liter)
of coolant after a hour drive is probably OK; having to add a gallon
(4 L) of coolant after a 10-minute drive isn't.  At least, he wants to
be able to drive it ~30 minutes to my house so I can do some work on
it for him (replacing fuel lines plus a few other things.)

Our next trick, probably on Monday, is to pull the right-side head and
see what we have.  From looking at the list archives, Ben's web site
(benplace.com), and one or two other sources, it looks like our minimum
bill of materials will be:

---
Rubber head gasket (between head and water jacket) - original VW
"The Right Stuff" sealant for above, plus for cap nuts for head

Green o-ring around outside of cylinder near top - original VW
Loctite 518 sealant for above

Flat metal ring for top of cylinder - original VW

Valve cover gasket

JB Weld (as required to fix pitted head)
---

And the procedure will be, approximately:

---
- Remove head
- Leave cylinder sleeves in place
- Clean and inspect

Head inspection points:

- No show stoppers like big cracks, holes, pieces missing, valves
   totally burnt, etc.
- Round surface on heads where cylinders sit: must be perfect
- If above is OK, flat surface around outside of head where gasket/
   water jacket sits: if flat, OK; if pitted, fill in with JB Weld
   and sand flat

If head we have is no good: Ponder options

If reinstalling current head:

- Smooth flat surface with JB Weld as above
- Clean sealing surfaces on head
- Clean edge of water jacket
- Remove green O-rings from cylinders; clean grooves
- Install new green O-rings on cylinders; seal with Loctite 518
- Put "Right Stuff" on water jacket
- Install rubber head gasket
- Put more "Right Stuff" on rubber head gasket
- Seal pushrod seals with Loctite 518
- Install head; torque nuts in order to 7, 37, 55 lb-ft with beam type
   torque wrench
- Otherwise, "Assembly is the reverse of removal." :)
---

Before running the engine we will also be investigating the fuel leak on
top of the tank.  I suspect it's as simple as a loose or rotted hose;
there was a lot of fuel coming out, but it didn't happen until right
before the filler nozzle shut off, so it's relatively high on the tank.
Even before we knew about this leak, there were two working fire
extinguishers on board.

Anyway, does the above head procedure sound reasonable?  Note that
unless we find something really scary under the right head, we aren't
planning to open up the left head at this time - does that argue for not
going all the way to 55 lb-ft on the right head?  Remember, the goal
right now is not "100% dry" - it's simply "dry enough" to be able to
drive the van enough to evaluate it some more.

(Of course, since I also own a '64 Bus and a '74 Bug, I know deep in my
  heart that this is the kind of trouble you get into when you start
  putting that funny water stuff in your engines.  :)  )

Thanks!

Matt Roberds