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Date:         Sun, 17 Jun 2007 22:19:48 -0500
Reply-To:     mattroberds@COX.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matt Roberds <mattroberds@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: It's alive,
              but it gives bad head!  (Fixing head leak on '87 2.1L)
Comments: cc: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

---- Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > If the cooling system can’t hold pressure, operating the engine is a risk. > Just being filled with coolant is not quit enough.

Well, it didn't seem to be spraying out of the leaky spot, even under load and RPM - mostly just a massive drip. I wasn't driving the Westy, but at first, the gauge indicated about mid-range and the low-coolant LED did not light. The gauge headed for "hot" and the LED started blinking at about the same time, at which time the engine was shut down. But I agree that this is not a great way to run any water-cooled engine.

> If it has to be moved, have it towed.

We did get it back to his house and into a parking spot where we can work on it some more. If it needs to go further, he's got a Jeep Cherokee with enough power to flat-tow the Westy+driver using a strap or chain.

> 55ft/lbs. torque will ensure multiple broken studs.

What should be used - the stock Bentley torque of (I think) 37 lb-ft, or some other value?

Given your comments, here is a revised procedure:

Revised bill of materials: --- Rubber head gasket (between head and water jacket) - original VW "The Right Stuff" sealant for rubber head gasket

Green o-ring around outside of cylinder near top - original VW Loctite 518 sealant for green o-ring

Flat metal ring for top of cylinder - original VW

New cap nuts Yellow sealant from engine gasket set or Loctite sealant for studs under cap nuts

Valve cover gasket ---

Revised procedure: --- - Remove head - Leave cylinder sleeves in place - Clean and inspect

Head inspection points:

- No show stoppers like big cracks, holes, pieces missing, valves totally burnt, etc. - Round surface on heads where cylinders sit: must be perfect - If above is OK, flat surface around outside of head where gasket/ water jacket sits: if flat, OK; if pitted, don't worry about filling the pits, but remove any corrosion If head we have is no good: Ponder options

If reinstalling current head:

- Remove all corrosion - have head bead blasted - Clean head to make sure all blast media is gone - Clean sealing surfaces on head - Clean edge of water jacket - Remove old green O-rings from cylinders; clean grooves - Install new green O-rings on cylinders; seal with Loctite 518 - Put "Right Stuff" on water jacket - Install rubber head gasket - Put more "Right Stuff" on rubber head gasket - Seal pushrod seals with Loctite 518 - Put new flat metal rings in cylinder recesses in head - Install head - Put a dab of yellow gasket-set sealant or Loctite sealant on head studs - Torque nuts in order to 7 then 37 lb-ft with beam type torque wrench - Otherwise, "Assembly is the reverse of removal." :) ---

Are there any other changes that should be made to this procedure?

Thanks!

Matt Roberds


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