Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 18:24:25 -0500
Reply-To: Max Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Max Wellhouse <maxjoyce@IPA.NET>
Subject: Re: Heat resistance of VDO dual sender
In-Reply-To: <46782C8F.1020007@phas.ubc.ca>
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Mr. Pfrommer: I was shocked as well after reading the Volkscafe
instructions/guidelines for their installation. What a stupid place
to mount a rubber hose and an oil pressure sender where a road rock
could take it all out in one shot.
I had a custom made #4 Stainless steel Teflon hose(Aeroquip no less)
with swedged fittings on each end and about 15" long for under
$15. I bought the gauge and dual sender unit used on ebay for dirt
cheap and bought a P clamp at the local hardware store. Yes, you
need to ground the sending unit. I mounted mine on top of the
crankcase near the 3/4 side using an existing threaded hole in the
case that mounted something I no longer needed and that was over 5
years ago and no problems with heat. Even with the brass 1/8"npt
fittings I bought the total cost was under $40. The hell with that
buzzer system!! Mine's hooked up, but it's not going to fail and
cook my motor now. Good luck with your ijnstall. I think you are on
the right track.
DM&FS
At 02:20 PM 6/19/2007, Thomas Pfrommer wrote:
>Hi everybody,
>I am currently installing a permanent electrical oil pressure sender in
>my 2.1l 87 Vanagon and I am wandering about the heat resistance of the
>sender unit. I read some old posts here on the mailing list as well as
>this article
>
>http://www.van-cafe.com/vanagonparts.jsp?pa=ip&ip=1401786957
>
>and this
>
>http://www.vanagon.com/info/articles/oil-pressure-probs/index.html
>
>
>I do not like the idea to have the sender under the left tin shield and
>have it exposed to all the dirt and stuff. So i decided to use a tubing
>(steel) and bent it in a manner so that I can install the sender on top
>of the engine where the AC is supposed to sit if i had one. (Let me know
>if you want a picture on how much and where to bend these tubings .... I
>used 20" of tubing).
>As whole system is on the engine, I do not expect to have lots of stress
>on the M10x1 threaded hole between the pushrod tubes, so hopefully I do
>not damage it with the vibrations. Its the same case, just connected
>above and below. Stainless steel braided Teflon tubing was really
>expensive unfortunately. Please correct me if I am wrong.
>
>Hence there is even a nice open threaded hole that I can use to clamp
>down the sender. I will use a P (or Q)-shaped metal sheet to hold it. My
>question now is, whether the heat, transfered by this metal sheet from
>the engine will do any harm to the sender? Also the radiation heat will
>be a lot, as the sender is not much above the case (~1cm). I could use
>some silicon based tubing and ground the sender actively via a small
>wire. Reading the above mentioned articles, I will have to use Teflon
>band to seal the fittings (brass). So I cannot use the tubing itself to
>ground. Before I bend the metal sheet I just would like to know if the
>heat insulation plus additional grounding effort is necessary, or should
>I just go with the metal sheet directly to the sender.
>
>Thanks a lot for your help.
>Hey the camping season has now arrived in Vancouver BC as well. I am
>looking forward to finally use m nice van.
>Cheers
>Thomas
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